Riding in Central France

Dormant volcanoes and rolling hills make the central region well worth a visit for culture and cuisine

THERE’S NORMALLY MORE rain on these trips than you see from the photos, as the camera only comes out when the sun’s shining. That means the fabulous roads we cross in the Velay and the foothills of the Massif Central go unrecorded, as drizzle dampens the tarmac but not our spirits. This is riding even an unseasonal summer shower can’t spoil. The roads are constantly twisting and rising and falling – not the steep climbs and hundreds of hairpins of the Pyrenees and the Alps, but gentler slopes and more forgiving bends through a quiet landscape of well-tended farmland and dense, dark forestry.

Then as we leave Issoire, heading for the Auvergne volcanoes, the clouds part momentarily. “Quick, get the camera out,” I shout to photographer Weeble as we stop on a suitable corner. A frantic photoshoot follows… but in fact, there was no need to panic. As we head towards our overnight stop, we’re treated to a spectacular balmy evening with the cloudy sky streaked pink by the setting sun. It’s majestic, unexpected, and highly rewarding – just like the often-overlooked riding in the centre of France.

The middle of France is a big place, though. There’s great riding all over it, but in the following pages we pick out our favourite routes in four regions – plus some other not-to-be-missed rides.