Normandy

There’s much more to the Normandy coast than tanks and landing craft

WE BRITS OWE a lot to the Normans. Never mind what we called William before he became the Conqueror, this was where he hailed from. Though Caen was his capital, its massive castle one of the few buildings to survive D-day, the story of his ascension to the English throne is famously told on the tapestry still displayed in Bayeux.

But though Normandy is rich in history, it’s more than a living theme park. It’s a beautiful countryside – in some ways like the south of England, with its verdant fields fringed by hedges and divided by twisty, enjoyable roads. But the villages are very different – churches that somehow look less Norman than the Norman churches of the Home Counties surrounded by grey-stone houses built with proportions that aren’t quite how we do it in Britain.

It creates an interesting atmosphere: you feel instantly at home, yet at the same time it’s clear you’re in a different land. That sense of holiday, of adventure, is there – but there’s a reassuring feeling of familiarity too. It makes it an easy place to have a relaxing holiday.

PLACES TO STAY

BAYEUX Smaller and quieter than Caen, with much more of an old-world feel to it, Bayeux’s an excellent base town. Plenty to do off the bike (from D-day museums to the famous tapestry) and handy for great riding in every direction.

Hotel tip: Hotel Le Lion d’or (www.liondor-bayeux.fr) FECAMP A charming town on the coast north of Le Havre: great sea views and brilliant roads nearby. Not the place if you want to be out on the town every night but perfect for a stress-free break.

Hotel tip: Auberge les Tonnelle (www.aubergelestonnelles.com) BARNEVILLE-CARTERET The Cherbourg Peninsula has plenty of popular resort towns, ideal if you want a day or two of sun worshipping. Our favourite is the smart but unpretentious Barneville, which has a particularly nice beach.

Hotel tip: Hotel des Isles (www.hoteldesisles.com) ALENCON Further inland from the coast, the small city of Alençon opens up a whole world of beautiful riding, through the Orne region, Suisse Normande. For our money, a much more pleasant city than the neighbouring Le Mans.

Hotel tip: Hotel Des Ducs (www. hoteldesducsalencon.com)

OFF THE BIKE

D-DAY BEACHES The big attraction for many visitors are the D-day beaches, which run from Sword (Ouistreham/lions sur Mer) to Utah on the Cherbourg peninsula. There are plenty of great museums (www. junobeach.org, www.utahbeach.com, www.museearromanches.fr). The American cemetery at Colleville and the Omaha beach memorial are must-see sites. LE MANS Home to France’s Motogp race, a 24-hour bike race and apparently some cars as well. The city itself has all the charm of Birmingham (so some people love it) but it is petrolhead heaven. The circuit’s museum is focused more on cars than bikes, but still interesting. (www.lemans-musee24h.com) TO THE LIGHTHOUSE! Handy for the lovely village of Barfleur is the impressive granite spire of the Gatteville lighthouse. CASTLES The huge Caen castle was once the seat of power of one William the Bastard… who became the Conqueror. Definitely worth a look – but not the only great castle in Normandy. Also try the moated, romantic Crèvecoeuren-auge. (www.musee-de-normandie.fr, www.chateau-de-crevecoeur. com) VILLEDIEU-LES-POELES A great lunch stop in a medieval town that celebrates its metallurgical past with copper saucepans and bell foundries. (www.manche-tourism.com/ villedieu-les-poeles-normandy) LYONS-LA-FORET Nestling in a valley east of Rouen, Lyons-la-forêt is another of France’s most beautiful villages, often used as a film set for historical dramas thanks to its beautiful covered ‘halle’ and house where Ravel stayed. (http://en.normandie-tourisme. fr/lyons-la-foret-239-2.html) CAP DE LA HAGUE Few people have heard of this coastal area west of Cherbourg, but it’s gorgeous. Like the prettiest bits of Cornish coast with a view of Alderney. Well, so long as you ignore the nuclear power station. (www.lahague-tourisme.co.uk)

LA MAISON DU BISCUIT 15 minutes south of Cherbourg, La Maison is part of a pre-great War High Street, incongruously placed by an otherwise deserted road. A good photo stop. (www. cotentin-tourisme.com/ cotentin-tourisme-maison-dubiscuit.html) LE MESNIL-GARNIER South of Coutances, Le Mesnil-garnier hosts the Championnat du Monde de Lancer les Savonnettes Mouillées. Yes, the world wet soap-throwing championships. Throughout the year, ask at the bar and you’ll be given a bucket of wet soap cakes and asked to lob them as far as possible. Do well and you may be asked back for the grand final in the autumn. The record is 92m. (www.tourisme-coutances. fr/9322-championnat-dumonde-de-lancer-desavonnettes-mouillees/)