PLACES TO STAY
BIARRITZ
We’d avoid Bayonne: Biarritz is big enough and has plenty of hotels to choose from. It’s cool, swanky, and has lots to see including a museum, an aquarium, a lighthouse, and the Rocher de la Vierge (a huge Madonna on a rock overlooking the entry to the fishermen’s harbour). The Wheels and Waves festival is held there each June. A good base if you’re not riding every day and want a bit of time on the beach.
Hotel tip: Hotel de l’ocean (biarritz-hotel-ocean.com)
ST JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT
Our preferred gateway to the mountains is a lovely town with a small, well-preserved medieval citadel. It’s generally charmingly sleepy but gets busier on Mondays, which is market day.
Hotel tip: Hotel des Remparts (hoteldesremparts.fr)
ARGELES-GAZOST
This quiet town is between the Col du Soulour and the Col du Tourmalet. A great central location for a riding trip with the emphasis on putting on mountain miles, without being as busy as nearby Lourdes.
Hotel tip: Hôtel l’arrieulat Auberge des Pyrenees (hotelpyrenees.fr)
BAGNERES-DE-LUCHON
High in the mountains, close to the Spanish border, at the heart of the Pyrenees, this spa town is a great base for exploring the eastern and western Pyrenees on both sides of the border.
Hotel tip: Hotel Alti Luchon (altiluchon.com)