Destination: Portland
Between a rock and... another rock. And some more rocks.
Rocks, you say? Yep. High-quality limestone that just begs to be dug up and carved into fancy shapes. See St Paul’s Cathedral? Portland Stone. Most of the island (it’s technically a peninsula) is honeycombed with old quarries and with compacted sand. The old quarrymen had such a fear of cave-ins caused by rabbit warrens that to this day native Portlanders won’t say ‘rabbit’ for fear of bad luck.
They sound a bit odd... Well, it’s an odd sort of place. Their almost-cut-off status gives Portlanders a kind of siege mentality. In fact, those who live on the high bit don’t entirely trust those on the low bit, and vice versa, but they unite in their shared disdain for people from Weymouth.
Doesn’t sound very welcoming... It is, honest! So long as you’re not a rabbit from Weymouth. They welcomed loads of people here during the Olympics - Portland was the venue for the sailing events (and they won’t let you forget it). It’s just that they’re used to repelling invaders — the first Viking attack on the British Isles was on Portland.
So, what will I find there? Lots of stone, arranged in different ways. There’s a new stone circle and a lot of the older houses used scrap stone from the quarries. Nip down to Church Ope Cove, where the beach huts have been known to sell for 25 grand. There’s been a lighthouse or beacon on Portland Bill in the south since Roman times — three are still standing, and the current one is open for guided tours. Nearby is Pulpit Rock — a man-made monolith overlooking the turbulent waters of the Race, where two currents collide.
Jailhouse Rock They like locking people up here. There’s a long-established Borstal and the old fortress at the top of the island is now a prison. Next to it you’ll find the Jailhouse Café, with great views over the harbour and bay. If you’re wondering what the big slabby concrete things are, they’re bits of Mulberry harbour that never got towed to Normandy in 1944. All that history’s given me a thirst... This 3x5-mile island used to have 260 licensed premises, the oldest The George across the road from St George’s Church. Though most are long gone, some of those remaining are rather good — try the Corner House or the Cove House. If you’re peckish, try some local, award-winning pork scratchings.