Human Kindness
I HAVE BEEN in Kazakhstan for a while now, a lot longer than I had expected. I was in Almaty for a month waiting for a new clutch and valves to fix my bike. I have just arrived in Atyrau after retracing my tyre tracks for almost 2000 miles; my Turkmenistan visa request never got a response so I am heading to Aktau where I will get a ferry across the Caspian Sea to Azerbaijan then ride into Iran.
The centre of Kazakhstan is vast, windy, sandy and either really hot or really cold, one day you’re riding in 40°C heat and the next, it’s 7°C with a brutal wind. Today I was happy to travel a road I haven’t ridden before for the first time in a while, even if I did get stopped by the police and had to pay a 10,000 Tenge (£22) ‘fine’. These police were the first negative human interaction I have had so far and it really puts into perspective the abundance of kindness and generosity I have been shown along the way.
After my police encounter I rode the remaining 90 minutes to Atyrau, parked up and as I was starting to unload, I noticed a guy checking out the bike. I smiled and he came over for a chat. After disappearing for five minutes, the man returned and directed me to secure parking before helping to carry my bags back to the hotel. When I checked in, it transpired he had already paid for my room and dinner. He shook my hand, said; “Have a safe trip”, and left.
In Almaty, I stayed In the homes of Rustem and Dima for the duration of my month-long delay. I was fed, entertained, bought gifts, prioritised in queues for servicing and shown some beautiful places that I may never have found on my own. Every time I tried to pay for something, I got the same response: “Sorry, my English not good. Don’t understand”.
I’ve met so many kind people along the way. In Slovenia I stayed with Jon who was amazingly generous and hospitable and showed me spectacular places and other people that I probably would have missed altogether. In Hungary I stayed with Tim who got in touch via instagram, offering a bed and food — he even gave me a tour of Budapest at night from his URAL sidecar.
In Russia I met Alexander who brought me to his home for coffee, sorted out accommodation issues and escorted me out of the city the next day. He still messages me occasionally to check on my progress.
In Kyzylorda I stayed with Rinat who made me feel so at home and showed such care. Leaving Almaty, I forgot to fill my extra fuel tanks and was saved by the miraculous appearance of a group of bikers.
The other day I saw a quote from Aldous Huxley: “To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries”. That summarises my point entirely.
It is scary to put your trust in strangers — we are warned about it our whole lives — but it’s rewarding when you do. Forget everything you’ve been told — there are amazing people everywhere.