Suzuki Hayabusa
Suzuki’s GSX1300R Hayabusa has few peers when it comes to speed
Find a good example of the original hyperbike
WITH A CAREER spanning two decades of hypersports performance across two distinct models, Suzuki’s Hayabusa built a formidable reputation based on its legendary engine muscle, astonishing acceleration, top speed and impeccable chassis stability. And, er, ‘challenging’ aerodynamic styling.
Launched in 1999, its 1299cc watercooled inline four was technically unremarkable and pretty much an evolution of the previous generation of GSX-R1100 engine in terms of design. That said, it was fettled and ram-air pushed peak power to a claimed 173bhp: a road bike record. The chassis was sporty with a massive ally beam frame, USD forks, six-pot brakes and that swoopy styling. The result was a significant increase in top speed, acceleration and performance.
By 2008, a changing motorcycling landscape began to question the validity of hypersports bikes. Yet with Kawasaki’s ZZR1400 moving the game on, Suzuki revamped the Hayabusa with a capacity of 1340cc, for a claimed 194bhp. The chassis got radial 4-pot calipers, new suspension, a revised swingarm and a restyle.
The Busa finally went out of production in 2018, due to falling sales versus the cost of meeting Euro4 emissions targets.
MISFIRE WOES #1
Check for misfires. There are a lot of causes but it often is rust and crap in the tank. Easy to check for by draining the tank and removing the fuel sender unit. On early Busas, once contaminated, water in unused fuel is constantly cycled from the tank to the fuel injection rail and back again, causing the water to condense out, getting trapped in the external pump filter. The filter’s mesh is so fine it can’t let water through. When the filters block up, it stops the fuel. The result is a worsening misfire; stripping the pump and cleaning the filter is the cure. Later models have the pump in the tank, which is a better design
BRAKES
Brakes on this 2013 bike are excellent. But early Busa six-pot Tokicos (switched to four-pot radials on the 2008 revamp) suffer if the pistons aren’t cleaned regularly. When one begins to seize, it affects the performance of the whole of the caliper, because they share one long brake pad. Solution is to strip, clean and then maintain the calipers
MISFIRE WOES #2
Another misfire cause could be injector failure. On early bikes, the holding coil in one or more fuel injectors can burn out, causing a misfire (more common on bikes with heavy throttle use). The solution is to replace the injector or, more often, all four in case the others are on their way out. The Busa has coils-in-caps and it’s not unknown for one or more to expire. Check with a multimeter
MISFIRE WOES #3
One more potential first-gen Busa fuelling issue is the bike misfiring and stalling when leaned over, usually on the sidestand. This is mucky fuel contaminating the fuel tap filter. Moving the tap and cleaning the filter only solves half of the problem; unless the tank is removed, drained and cleaned with a rust removal fluid, it will happen again
SUBFRAME CRACKS
First year 1999 to 2000 Hayabusas had tubular aluminium subframes which could suffer cracking around welds when used with pillions, luggage and, according to Suzuki sources, a single aftermarket exhaust instead of the stock twin cans (which were, apparently, structural). In 2001, production switched to steel and most bikes were converted under a recall. But check with a magnet
GEARBOX GOOD
Suzuki gearboxes are generally among the sweetest to use of all manufacturers and are also among the most durable. But on a bigpower machine like the Busa it’s not unknown for shifting problems between first and second gear, and fifth and sixth. It might be hard finding space during a test ride, but the engine needs to be shifted under load cleanly through the whole ’box — worn selector forks or dogs will be expensive to rectify
CLUTCH JERK
Second-generation bikes have strong clutches but on early Busas, Suzuki attempted to make a rudimentary slip/locking clutch using two interlocking parts to supply drive, but which can cause clutch chatter and grabiness during hard standing starts. The solution is to have the two centres welded together. Or better, buy one available on ebay. Fitment requires clutch removal but is relatively simple
GET YOUR BEARINGS
Hayabusas can suffer from clumsy wheelies, which will affect head and front-wheel bearings. Check for notchy steering and play in the front wheel. Replacement is quite easy and cheap, though. Also check for weeping fork seals — over time the bushes will wear through the chrome. Check by lifting the front end up so the fork legs extend to show the worn area