IT’S GAUL RIGHT NOW
If you’re done with Disney, this might be your perfect Paris break – with a story 2,000 years in the making. JAMES CARTLEDGE takes his family back in time
IT’S the Paris theme park based on an array of well-loved cartoon characters. No, not that one. It’s fair to say that, to British eyes, Parc Astérix has lived in the mouse-shaped shadow of Disneyland Paris for the duration of its 30-year history.
Hardly surprising, I suppose. Mickey and chums have been constant TV and movie companions for generations, whereas the extent of my Astérix knowledge ran to vague memories of dubbed episodes on the telly in the 1980s.
The exploits of the plucky Gaul and his band of Roman-bothering brothers never quite reached saturation level on this side of the Channel.
But it’s a very different story in his home country of France, as shown by the fact that an entire theme park is devoted to the little feller at Plailly, 20 miles north of the capital.
And now there’s a new drive to tempt British visitors. On a weekend break, we found the park very welcoming and easily walkable, even for small children.
And, as we discovered, you don’t need to be an Asterix diehard to enjoy the rollercoasters, rapids and array of other rides and shows on offer.
Nor is the lack of English translation any real problem, either.
We were there to see the latest attraction unveiled – a 4D interactive movie experience in a purpose-built 300-seat theatre which takes viewers inside the latest skirmish with the Romans.
It’s called Attention Menhir – that’s a standing stone in French – and it’s no plot spoiler to say it involves boulders being chucked. A lot.
The 4D element involves air blasts and water jets and essentially means you get slightly wet when someone splash-lands on screen and, when a character runs through the forest, something snaps at your ankles as if you, too, are hurtling through the grass.
As you might expect, there are also loads of traditional 3D japes like soldiers who appear to be flying towards you in your seat.
It’s all great knockabout fun for adults and kids alike, and was certainly among the highlights of the attractions we tried during our two-night stay.
We flew from Birmingham to Charles de Gaulle – a flight time of around 80 minutes with Flybe – and transferred by car to the park, a drive of less than half-an-hour via the A1 motorway. Shuttle buses run from Paris and CDG, while Eurostar is the other obvious option if you’re travelling direct from the UK and can face the extra journey time to and from London.
We stayed at La Cité suspendue, an enchanting forest complex of wood-clad rooms, connected by wooden walkways to the park, a five-minute stroll away in one direction, and a reception and restaurant complex, in the other.
The restaurant is the only real option for an evening meal if you do stay over, and there’s no facility to make a drink in your room. But it comfortably slept five, with a bunk room and extra single bed for the kids.
Crucially (for them), there was wi-fi, TV and a lovely balcony with forest views and, overall, we found it a fine place for an overnight break.
The buffet-style meal set-up was great with plenty of choice at both breakfast and dinner. My son, far more adventurous than I, even tried snails at teatime.
In the morning, Asterix and chums toured the diner to say hello to the kids and ramp up the excitement for the day ahead.
There’s another hotel on site and a third due to open early next year. An added perk is that visitors staying over get early access to the rides, so you can beat the queues for the most in-demand. There are a total of 47 attractions and shows set in six historically-themed worlds, including one for the youngest children.
I don’t do rollercoasters – I’m generally to be found holding my wife’s bag while she loops-the-loop – but those who do are spoiled for choice. One, called Goudurix, has seven such loops, while another, Tonnerre de Zeus, has also been well-reviewed.
We all enjoyed the rapids and the dolphin and sea lion show while, as you would expect, there are plenty of places to stop for lunch or buy a souvenir.
We visited at the end of April, during the Easter holiday back home, and didn’t find the crowds to be a problem, although I assume it’s busier during peak summer season.
So, if you’re done with Disney or fancy a Paris break that isn’t just the Eiffel Tower and the same old sights, you might just find that it ‘as to be Asterix’.
Asterix the Gaul was created by René Goscinny and illustrated by Albert Uderzo. In 1999 Le Monde listed it as the 20th-century’s 23rd greatest book