WALKING IN A WINTER WONDERLAND
NISHA MAL makes a festive foray to the Christmas markets of the Tyrol
INNSBRUCK is much more than a winter sports hub. When people talk about the capital of Austria’s state of Tyrol, its breathtaking mountain settings and storied historical past come to mind.
But stroll through the cobbled streets during the festive season and you’ll see the magical city is home to not one but six Christmas markets.
Between November and
December, the Old Town transforms into a whimsical winter wonderland.
A huge fir Christmas tree overlooks the market and its twinkling fairy lights bounce off the famous Golden Roof, the metallic balcony that is one of the city’s famous symbols.
Completed in 1500, it was decorated with more than 2,000 fire-gilded copper tiles to mark the wedding of Emperor Maximilian I and Bianca Maria Sforza.
My first stop was the Old Town Christmas Markets. The streets were lined with stalls selling glass ornaments, wooden toys and festive treats like heady Glühwein (mulled wine), chocolate-coated fruits, honey-roasted nuts and cheese wheels.
It’s not too expensive to shop at the market. You can buy a bauble for as little as €1, although the more elaborate the ornament, the more it’ll cost. A hand-carved decoration can be as much as €25.
At night, trumpet players and carol singers perform outside of the
Golden Roof. Lovebirds, friends and children sitting on their parents’ shoulders gather round to watch.
It’s like being in a John Lewis Christmas ad, except there isn’t a lovable dragon or monster in sight.
There is however ‘fairy tale street’ where you will discover 28 life-size figures from stories and legends.
Innsbruck is also home to the Market Square, Hungerburg, Maria-Theresien-Street, St Nikolaus and Wilten Christmas markets. Most run until December 23 with the exception of Maria-Theresien-Street, which ends at the beginning of January 2020.
As you drink in the sights (and the Glühwein) treat yourself to some food.
Austrian dishes are nothing if not hearty. Kasspatzln is a proper winter warmer, made from noodles smothered in cheese and bacon and finished with a generous scattering of crispy onions. You can find it at most food vendors.
A few streets away from the Old
Town Christmas markets lies Weinhaus Happ, a non-touristy hotspot serving up traditional dishes.
Take a break from the outdoors and tuck into platefuls of schnitzel (thin slices of pork or veal fried in breadcrumbs or fat), and schweinefilet – a supper consisting of a fillet of pork, a rich mushroom sauce and Austrian pasta. Prices for a main range from €14 to €24.
Away from the festivities, a visit to the Alps is a must. You can take a Nordkette cable car up to the peak and enjoy the stunning views 2,256 metres above the city. It takes just a few minutes to get to the top, and it is one of the most magnificent sites you’ll ever see.
The day I went up, it was pretty cloudy so I wasn’t able to get a crystal-clear view but the fog made it seem like I was walking on clouds.
The atmosphere was still and cool and the air felt pure and fresh. The ski trails were empty, patiently waiting for December’s snowfall and the thousands of skiers that it’ll bring with it.
Nestled between jagged mountainous pathways, you could just about make out the rooftops of houses and restaurants.
Back on the ground, if walking around the markets hasn’t sapped d your energy, take the 148 steps up the City Tower, which leads to a deck offering sweeping views of the city.
Swarovski Crystal Worlds is just a short bus ride outside of Innsbruck. The museum was built in the late 1990s to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the luxury Austrian jewellery brand.
It’s found between the mountains of Tyrol, and inside it has sparkling art installations and galleries. There’s also a huge gift shop at the end for those itching to do a spot of shopping.
During my four-day stay I called the artsy Stage 12 hotel home. Set among the hustle and bustle of Innsbruck, it’s a great location if you want to get around on foot.
Most of the Christmas markets are within walking distance, and the sites that are a little further out of the way are easy to get to thanks to the nearby tram and bus stops.
There are plenty of historical sites to feast your eyes on, like the cathedral and the Imperial Palace, which is one of the three historiccultural monuments in Austria.
It’s worth getting an Innsbruck Card to make the most out of your time. This allows you to save money on cable cars and ticket prices to local attractions and museums.
You can buy it ahead of trip via innsbruck.info.
As I packed my bags and made my way to Innsbruck Airport, the first snowflakes of winter fell from the clear blue skies ...