Ruislip & Eastcote & Northwood Gazette
A Fife less ordinary
LINDSAY SUTTON finds that, despite being steeped in history, Fife is still very much for the living
IT’S one of the oldest comedy sketches in the book. The TV newsreader says: “And finally, in today’s football match, the score was East Fife 4, Forfar 5. “I’m sorry, I’ll read that again: East Fife 5, Forfar 4 . . . “
But the old joke isn’t the only thing that put the Ancient Kingdom of Fife on the map. For the past eight years, this area of East Scotland – it’s north of Edinburgh and south of Dundee – has been voted No 1 Outdoor Destination by Scotland National Heritage.
The fact that it’s the ‘Home of Golf,’ with its five courses focussed on St Andrews, does help the cause. But it’s far more than that. Quite simply,
Fife is a classic ‘hidden gem’ that often gets pushed aside by the Highlands and Islands or Scotland’s big city magnets.
People who have never been to Fife just don’t know what they are missing.
It’s beautiful, characterful, has coastal villages to die for, is an up-and-coming foodie destination, and has a wealth of abbeys, castles and palaces. It was the royal capital of Scotland until the 17th Century, is linked to the rest of eastern Scotland by five distinctive bridges, including the worldfamous Forth Bridge and the newly opened Queensferry Crossing.
On top of all this, Fife has Scotland’s longest continuous coastal path, stretching for 117 miles through some pretty attractive seascapes.
A couple of days in Edinburgh allows you to indulge in big-city attractions, before appreciating the peace, tranquility and beauty of Fife.
Hiring a car gives you the opportunity to take in the majestic bridges, including the stylish new Queensferry Crossing, beautifully designed to speed up traffic flow across the great Forth inlet.
Once on the northern bank, you have the chance to take in a sea-level view of the bridges, from the small hamlet of North Queensferry down below. A proper breakfast at Rankin’s Cafe in the Main Street sets you up nicely for your Fife experience.
Turn inland, past Rosyth Naval Shipyard, and you will soon discover another unexpected treat, in the form of Culross, pronounce Cue-Ross. It’s like a 17th Century time capsule, with its ancient buildings, many restored to pristine condition. If it resembles a film-set, that’s because it’s often used as such. Kidnapped, starring Michael Caine, is a classic case.
In its heyday, Culross was a hive of industrial activity. Sea salt was boiled; coal was extracted from under the Forth; and the village ‘hammer men’ made ironware. Some coal was exported to Holland, the ships bringing back red pantile (pantile) roof slates as ballast, which explains today’s ‘Continental’ feel of the community’s houses.
All this is explained by volunteer guides, who will also show you Culross Palace, a 16th Century merchant’s house; and St Mungo’s Chapel, built by Archbishop Blackadder, believe it or not.
The nearby former linen-weaving town of Dunfermline is not to be missed. Its abbey is the burial place of Robert the Bruce, no less.
Throughout the town, the benign hand of Andrew Carnegie – once the richest man in the world – is still evident. Carnegie was a poor boy whose family members were not only upright and hard-working, but known radicals who agitated for the right to vote, which marked them down as ‘troublemakers’.
As a 13-year-old, Carnegie emigrated to America with his parents and there he made his fortune, ultimately becoming the country’s major steel producer during the railway boom years. When he sold the company to US Steel, he resolved that his vast wealth must be ‘fruitful,’ in helping others with their education, leisure and opportunities.
He set aside more than 90% of his fortune for trusts, concert halls, and above all, for libraries throughout Britain.
The Carnegie trusts he set up still operate, one having its headquarters
in the town’s vast Pittencrief Park that he bought from the local landowner. From being allowed access one day a year, the public can now use it every single day.
Carnegie’s boyhood home – it was bought by his wife as a 60th birthday present – is now a museum.
It’s a fascinating place, focussing on a fascinating man and his example of enlightened philanthropy. His work goes on today, throughout the world and in his home town. A new state-of-theart extension to the local Carnegie Library has given the town an exhibition area, a gallery, and a local studies area – all with beautiful views on to ancient Dunfermline Abbey and its grounds.
It’s all part of Dunfermline’s Heritage Quarter, giving visitors a compact area in which to savour its interesting past. The area is getting on the food trail too. Dine @29 is a town-centre restaurant that has boldly introduced ‘hot rock’ eating, with steaks served on a slab of volcanic rock heated to 400°C. It was novel and it was excellent.
The wonderful breakfast at nearby Balmule House is excellent too, as is the 14th Century property. It has been exquisitely modernised inside, and is set in 30 acres of land. Tranquility and taste are its hallmarks.
Next up is St Andrews, with its ancient university, cathedral and castle ruins, golfing attractions, and its majestic coastal setting. Staying nearby at the St Andrews Fairmont Golf and Spa Resort is a dream. Needless to say, luxury dining comes as standard and a post-dinner walk on the nearby beach where Chariots of Fire was filmed makes for the perfect end to a wonderful stay.