Ruislip & Eastcote & Northwood Gazette
Cake Boy’s
WITH
LIAM Charles does “cool things now”. The 20-yearold, who despite not winning last year’s Great British Bake Off was the stand-out contestant of the series, gave hosts Noel Fielding and Sandi Toksvig serious screen-time competition, and had that certain ‘we love you’ factor Mel and Sue used to rake in.
A year on and the Hackneyborn drama student has landed his own telly gig, co-hosting Bake Off: The Professionals, and has written his debut baking book, Cheeky Treats (“It’s just crazy!”) – plus, he’s still set to graduate from university in December.
The book packs in decadent cookies, colossal layer cakes (more of which later) and savoury bites too, like his pattie quiche and curried goat pie. “Shout out to Nan,” says 20-yearold Liam, “because she inspires my savoury bakes. Being from a Caribbean background, [eating] curried goat, jerk chicken, ackee and salt fish, I try to combine the two – my modern ‘hipster’ side [he says this wryly, with air quotes] and then my foundation of being Caribbean.”
Frustratingly, there aren’t many high-profile Caribbean bakers out there, but he’s hoping to change that: “That’s the plan.”
Liam’s fascination with baking, fuelled by food shows on TV, kicked in four years ago, when he was 16 and began to think, “I can do this myself”, when faced with Sainsbury’s ready-made cheesecakes and microwaveable apple crumbles.
He’d sketch out bakes on a whiteboard in his kitchen – and still does, Cheeky Treats is scrawled with his analytical doodles – drawing cross-sections of cupcakes (“So I could understand how it all worked”), and bring his cakes into school on Mondays. A teacher asked if tastes horrid and you wish you hadn’t bothered.
Can you avoid that? No, not really, often you have to take your chances. If you enjoy discovering new wines, then keep ahead reading wine reviews, Googling in wine aisles; or remembering recommendations from pals. The wine
(£6.50, Spar, 12% abv) was the first that drew my eye this week, with a green thistlelike flower gracing the label. The wine is a pale lemon colour and he wanted to do a bake sale and he “went all out, it was absolutely mad .... We sold out in stupid time,” he recalls.
You’d have wanted to be in his year at school too. Nicknamed ‘Cake Boy’, for sixth form prom he baked every person in his year a customised cupcake with biscuit initials. But what is it like, being 16, and a lad, baking? “It’s all right!” Liam says with a grin. “But obviously, some people don’t really understand it. It’s [usually] either football, music or girls. I had an element of all those things, but baking definitely was the main one for me.”
Refreshingly, he’s frank about the fact that baking from scratch
aromas include a dash of grapefruit, lemon and a whisper of honeysuckle. On the palate it is slightly creamy and the citrus notes reveal themselves again.
The wine is created by Romanian producer Cramele Recas which is the country’s biggest exporter of wine. I’ve also tried its (£5.99, Aldi 12% abv) which is a blend of shiraz and native Romanian grape fetească neagră. The blend with shiraz creates a wine with a smoky, spicy nose, dappled with damsons and black fruit, and to taste there’s a good dash of pepper and fruit, together with integrated tannins.
That Aldi link takes me to my first sub-plot and
(£6.99, Aldi, 13% abv) isn’t cheap – often, a microwaveable apple crumble actually makes more financial sense. “I’ve always looked after my money well,” he says, explaining how he saves money from birthdays and Christmas so he has a pool to buy ingredients with. “When student loan comes in, yeah, it’s the best thing ever. Some people are prone to get drunk – whatever, by all means – but I’m like, ‘Yes! I can buy ingredients, I could buy that new food processor I want!”’
It’s a balancing act, he says: “Because obviously you don’t want to skimp on quality of ingredients, but you also want it to be feasible.” His advice is, if you’re new to baking, to start off
and I just love the wine label. The wine is so-called because a herd of sheep escaped into the vineyard and instead of damaging the vines and grapes, the sheep plucked off the leaves, saving the vineyard workers the job. The label shows these cheeky little sheep; but what about the South African wine itself? It is zesty with lemon and lime with hints of tropical fruit. The flavours tingle in the mouth and a small amount of oak aging and lees stirring has added texture and bite.
Sauvignon blanc is the link to another sub-plot and this time I’m looking at a label with a distinct Thirties theme. The grapes for
(£8.99 or £7.49 in a buy-six deal in Majestic, 11.5 small, no matter how badly you want to “go to Lakeland and just buy everything!”
Just buy what you need, “then build up, build up, build up”.
As we begin gearing up for the next series of Bake Off (set to air at the end of summer), Liam says he feels he’s almost recovered from his experience in the tent. “Getting there, 80%,” he reasons with a grin. “I had post-traumatic bread disorder – ha ha – bread is obviously not my strongest point.”
Bread disasters aside, Liam is already being touted as something of a national treasure. “Oh my good giddy aunt,” he responds, laughing and collapsing in his chair. “That’s a massive accolade, isn’t it? A year ago, before I was on Bake Off, I was making meringues just in my kitchen and stressing over biscuits.
“Then to be called a national treasure is like, it’s actually crazy,” he buzzes, shaking his head. “Thank you?! Ha, that’s all I can say.”
■ Cheeky Treats by Liam Charles, photography by Haarala Hamilton, is published by Hodder & Stoughton, priced £20.
% abv) are grown on limestone and the wine is aged on its lees for about a month. It has notes of gooseberry and tropical fruit. I prefer its sister wine,
(the same price, 12.5% abv) which has summertime notes of raspberries and strawberries and cream. Pour in a glass and it is very garden-friendly. Marie-Angélique Satre was a beauty at the turn of the century, and impressionist artist Paul Gauguin painted her portrait and called it La Belle Angele. Hence the label theme.
■ Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.