Peter Holland
Peter looks at how the times are changing
Pete shares his thoughts
For those who are close to the category, the world of rum appears to be changing rapidly in terms of the vocab being used. Topics of conversation just a few years ago have developed. Issues are becoming more refined in their scope and more detailed.
For the mass market it’s business as usual. Those who chug the cheap stuff to get their ‘buzz on’ have no interest in the finer points of classification, undisclosed additions, or who gets the credit for the contents of the bottle.
But for others who are deeply immersed as producers, or enthusiasts, the language is changing and developing. A few years ago, it would be novel for some to discuss where a particular rum was matured. Then it was is this ‘tropically matured or continentally?’ Or even that brands have been shipping rum to their bonded warehouse and bottling under their own name for years, and even centuries. So tropical – which is vague and doesn’t mean much when you think of rum produced in Massachusetts or Madeira – is now ‘at distillery’ and more sensible it is too. The tropical microclimates in St. Philips, Barbados is quite different to Macuba, Martinique. Maturation will be comparable, in the way that interaction between spirit and oak is generally the same the world over, but also different due to heat and humidity variations.
Points of difference. Reasons why something has a sense of place about it.
For working out the added sugar levels in rums, the solution is as simple as a hydrometer, but I’m holding out for simple kits that reveal the presence of glycerine and other adulterations.
Something I encourage in my rum trainings is to normalise the language and not hide behind marketing. For bars training their staff, the best thing I can do is be as honest as possible about the category. I know that sweetened rums appeal to certain palates, so it makes sense for them to cater to all clients. People like what they like. But let’s make sure the happy sippers know they have a sweetened rum. I reckon if the customer knows that’s why they like that particular rum, then they may be happier exploring others in a similar style – exploring the category being key. Palates change, mine has, and it might also stop those dipping in for a dabble in the category, wondering why rum tastes like someone upended a sugar bowl into their glass, and leaving, never to return because they assume the entire category is like that.
For rum it is possible to legally sweeten (albeit to a maximum of 20 grams per litre) here in the EU, however it’s not permissible to flavour rums. Once you’ve done that, you’re into the realm of ‘Spirit Drink made with Rum.’ Spiced rum are technically spirit drinks, although for my part, if a brand presents itself as a spiced rum, the consumer is fully aware of what they’re getting. Spiced rum is a growing subcategory and having a decent selection of spiced rums is a great commercial idea.
To me, rum and spiced rum are different things. The base might be the same, but one is free-from-additions, the other is a flavoured one. I’ve been searching for an analogy that might work a little more clearly; so how about you’re a vodka drinker? You cherished all the qualities of a vodka, and a friend tells you they have an amazing vodka, you must try it and it turns out to be a gin. The base is a neutral grain spirit, that’s common to both, but there the similarities end... Ensuring a clear distinction between rum and spiced rum will help keep the genuinely premium, unadulterated rums to be seen in the best light. No harm in the spiced rum category developing either, but the blurring of the lines, spiced rum brands conveniently forgetting the ‘Spiced’ descriptor on the labelling; that sort of thing does the category no good. I don’t want real rum to be doctored, or for that process to be considered normal.
Lots of good work done, but more needed.
“For those who are close to the cateogry, the world of rum
appears to be changing rapidly in terms of the vocab”