IN THE SHADOW OF Mount Kanlaon

Don Papa is exploring the Spanish heritage of Sugarlandia

Whisper it quietly, but while for many sugar-cane might be synonymous with the Caribbean, the original variety – the Noble sugar-cane – was first discovered centuries ago in South East Asia before being imported to the Caribbean and the rest of the world.

With the necessary resources, you might say that South East Asia is a ripe location for the production of rum, and on the fourth largest island in the Philippines, Negros, they do just that. In 2012, the British-born Stephen Carroll founded a premium rum brand in the heart of what is known as sugarlandia – Don Papa Rum.

Don Papa’s name is inspired by Papa Isio (Dionisio Magbuelas), one of the leading figures from the Philippine revolution on the island of Negros.

Stephen explains the link, “Papa Isio is a local

hero who is prominent on the island. Once a sugarcane foreman, he was also the leader of a group of shamans, also known as Babaylanes and who fought against the Spanish colonisers in the 19th century. Papa Isio was integral to the independence of the island and his courage and independence is an inspiration to the brand.”

In production, the months between October and May are crucial, as the team at Don

Papa harvests the Noble cane on the island, loading it onto trucks that carry it to one of the island’s old sugar mills, dating back to the 1920s.

Stephen says, “The Philippines, particularly the island of Negros, is known for its high quality sugarcane and molasses. In the heart of the island is an active volcano called Mount Kanlaon, which contributes to a rich and fertile land. At the same time, the mills in this island are old and inefficient, producing more reputable molasses with a high sucrose content.”

The Don Papa molasses are then fermented on Negros island’s Bago Distillery and then distilled in a column still. The team at Don Papa then add spring water to reduce the ABV of the rum distillate and fill it into American oak ex-Bourbon casks.

Stephen explains the production, “Bleeding Heart Rum Company (producer of Don Papa) works in partnership with Bago Distillery, located about 20km outside of Bacolod. We use American ex-Bourbon barrels for several reasons; they’re less pourous and the leakage is kept to a minimum. They are also abundant and easy to source, while also contributing a vanilla flavour.”

Mount Kanlaon is an active stratovolcano and part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, where many earthquakes and volcanic eruptions occur. The volcano is the highest point in Negros with an elevation of 2,465m above sea level, yet it is at the foothills of the mountain that Don Papa ages its rums.

The flagship is aged for seven years, while it also produces a 10-years-old expression, alongside a number of cask varieties. Due to the humid climate, Don Papa suggests that its rums mature faster and that the angel’s share can reach up to eight per cent.

“The climate in the Philippines has been integral to the quality of our aged rums for Don Papa.

As a tropical country, the Philippines has both a high level of heat and humidity, producing an angel’s share of

8-12 per cent per year. The latitude of Negros Island is the same as the Caribbean, which would have about the same type of tropical climate”, says Stephen.

Currently there are four expressions of Don Papa Rum produced and available in the UK, although by time that you read this its latest expression, Don Papa Sevillana will have hit the shelves and raised that number to five, (along with the limited Don Papa Massakara). The flagship Don Papa, is seven years old and 40% ABV. “Our 7-years-old is sweet and fruity on the nose. It presents vanilla flavours, with some orange and honey. I think it’s good enough to drink on its own or with ice. However, I enjoy it in cocktails such as an Old Fashioned or a Negroni.”

To produce Don Papa 10 however, the Rum Master ages the rum for a further three years during which time the original ex-Bourbon casks are re-charred. The result is dried fruits and cacao. It is also 43% ABV.

I’m intrigued by the further cask experiments. Don Papa Rare Cask is aged in over-toasted barrels, for just five years, but comes in at a punchier 50.5% ABV. Then there is the sherry cask expression which, after being aged in ex-Bourbon, is finished in four types of sherry casks; Palo Cortado, Fino, Cream and Pedro Ximénez. The resulting liquid delivers a nuttiness on top of the dried fruits found in the other expressions.

Don Papa Sevillana is a limited edition said to be inspired by the oranges of Seville,

Spain. Unusually, it is a nod to the ManilaAcapulco Galleon trade that linked Spain to the Philippines via Mexico. With such a route came produce including Sevilla oranges and cultural influences. Unlike the original Don Papa, Sevillana is unfiltered, although it is also bottled at 40% ABV. The finished product is a blend of rums aged between four and 12-years-old and distilled from 100 per cent Negros island sugar cane. It is then aged in ex-Bourbon casks before being finished across three further years in Oloroso sherry casks and Andalusian Vino de Naranja, or Orange wine, casks.

“Its name is inspired by Papa Isio, one of the leading figures from the

Philippine revolution on the island of Negros”

Stephen explains Sevillana, “The story of Don Papa Sevillana relates to the Philippines rich cultural heritage which was highly influenced by its Spanish roots. The use of unique barrels, such as the Spanish Vino de Naranja casks adds further depth to the Don Papa story as well as complexity to the rum’s taste together with a blend of the rum finished in Oloroso sherry casks.

“This is an opportunity for us to showcase our master distiller’s skills and to show how different types of barrels add to the flavour and complexity of the liquid. The packaging shows the brighter and more vibrant side of Sugarlandia’s flora and fauna, while sticking to the true heritage of the Philippines.”

Duly, the new expression comes in the striking packaging that the brand has made its trademark. For this particular liquid, there is a Rococo-inspired design reflecting the aspects of the island’s Spanish heritage.

Stephen says, “Negros is one of the islands that was first colonised by Spain in the 15th century age of exploration, with its proximity to Mactan. It was also one of the major ports of trade for the Galleon Trade, which played its role in the cultural exchange of this era. The Spanish influence is prominent with the traditions, food and architecture.”

Where does Don Papa go from here then? Its experimenting with cask types shows a willingness to play around with flavour and the brand has quickly gained a foothold in the major rum drinking markets around the world, including the UK. Perhaps then, it’s not a stretch to say that the brand that has taken its name from a revolutionary, is marching boldly to the the nascent rum uprising that’s on the horizon.