GET AWAY LET THE RIVER RUN
WE set off on our Welsh holiday late on a Saturday afternoon due to work commitments but we still managed to reach Llangollen in daylight. So far, so good.
But, as night fell, we had to negotiate the Horseshoe Pass and narrow windy lanes in darkness in order to reach our holiday destination. Be warned – plan your travel times well.
We were stopping in the Old Rectory, a beautiful B&B dating back to 1832 in the tiny hamlet of Clocaenog, near Ruthin.
It’s run by Catherine Parton and her husband Michael. With a friendly welcome and hearty breakfast, Catherine set us up for the day, along with her famous lemon drizzle cake in the evening.
Great views from our bedroom windows made it the perfect centre for our stay.
Starting in Llangollen, we headed for the Heritage Railway on the banks of the River Dee. At this wonderful location at the foot of the historic bridge, we waited for our train to arrive.
The train which pulled in was a vintage diesel, and although fascinating to ride in, it very much reminded me of the ‘back to school’ trip I used to take with my mother at the end of the summer holidays to buy school uniform for the new term. We would climb on a train just like this and head into town for the day.
The line has only recently been extended to Corwen, on the A5, a great achievement, although on a wet and windy early spring Sunday morning, Corwen is a little sleepy, and unready for a trainload of passengers arriving every hour or so.
Passing the statue of Owain Glydwr, the last native Welshman to hold the title Prince of Wales, we tried to seek sanctuary from the weather in the local church, only to find a baptism was taking place.
Feeling it was inappropriate to gatecrash, we beat a hasty retreat back to the temporary station. A new one is in the process of being built, but the old station closed years ago.
From here, we headed back up the line to Llangollen on a steam train.
Smoking and bellowing, with the grit you always get in your eyes, we bumped our way back on the bouncy, springy seats from yesteryear. It was great fun and a wonderful way to arrive back at the historic town. Dinner was at Bertie’s Restaurant at Ruthin Castle where you can eat and drink like a king. This is a magnificently flamboyant venue set in the grand surrounds of the 13th century castle. Bertie was the name given fondly to King Edward VII by his family, and he was a frequent visitor to the castle. The surroundings and décor still echo that grace and grandeur as you dine under the chandeliers. With cries of “Not another castle!” from my teenage girls, we The steam train to Llangollen Marcus’ daugher Gemma on the horse-drawn canal boat set off for Chirk just on the Welsh borders the following day.
Here, you’ll find a magnificent 1295 castle constructed by command of Edward I, and now owned by the National Trust.
With some guides dressed in costume to talk you through the visit, and an older guide in the state rooms to show us around, they really brought the place alive.
The guide inside was making his debut, but was animated and opinionated in a good way, bringing the old building to life with his facts and figures and views on the artwork and décor.
Across country we found our way to Llyn Brenig visitor centre where we hired bikes for a tour of the reservoir.
After initial cries from Abi – my youngest – about the gears of her bike and the large chunky tyres, we did all really enjoy our trip around the lakes, getting lost only a couple of times as a few of the signs were missing.
It was a great healthy way to explore the countryside, with dramatic views over the dams of the lakes during our nine-mile trek.
It’s something we’re keen to try again, possibly next time when the sun is shining and the traditional Welsh rain stays away.
Without mudguards, we all ended up with mud splattered up our backs.
Next up was a trip back to Llangollen for a traditional horsedrawn canal trip. Very relaxing, just plodding along on the boat being towed by Hercules the horse. We enjoyed a two-hour trip to the Horseshoe Falls on the River Dee. Very quiet and a great way to pass the time and admire the scenery.
Ruthin itself is a charming market town. The Medieval centre is beautiful, with many ancient buildings full of charm and character.
We ate in the Castle Hotel – a Wetherspoons pub – and it was lovely. The food was good, and I The River Dee at Llangollen, North Wales Ruthin town centre managed to work my way around five different beers.
The loos, by the way, won the 2014 Toilet of the Year Award for the Hotel category, and were quite beautiful. Well, I had to go and see for myself after all that beer. Chirk Castle