MOT CHECK L I S T
Lights and other electrical components
The MOT only tests to the minimum standard. Anything outside this isn’t a testable item, other than for being mounted securely. We’ll look at the so-called ‘Daytime MOT’ elsewhere. This is the requirement for a full, unconditional test.
Headlight
The minimum requirement for most scooters is to have a single lamp with a dip and main function. With twin headlights, either or both can have these functions, as long as they work. Headlights should be fitted symmetrically around the centre axis of the scooter – normally one headlight at the top of the forks, though twin headlights can be fitted above each other or parallel, either side of the forks. The bulb can be white, yellow or white with a slight blue tinge. No other colours are allowed. There are no restrictions on the type of bulb used, as long as it comes within those guidelines. A recent alteration says that you cannot convert a Halogen-type headlight to HiD (High Intensity Discharge). If HiD is fitted, then a specialist matching reflector is needed.
The alignment of a headlight is dependent on the type of lens fitted. To generalise though, the beam needs to fall within a prescribed pattern on the test screen. This is one of the very few items that a tester can alter during the MOT, if it’s likely to be the only item the scooter will fail on.
An overlooked MOT item is switching. Some bulbs – noticeably the 80w type sometimes fitted to scooters designed for 35w systems – have a noticeable delay when switching on, or from main to dip. Any discernible wait isn’t welcomed. Where twin headlights are fitted, dip may have one of two functions. It can either dip both headlights, or turn one off while dipping the other. Either is acceptable.
Fails: ■ Headlight not switching to dip ■ Badly aligned ■ Not illuminating immediately ■ Incorrect colour bulb.
Tail and brake lights
Tail (and brake) lights are to be mounted across the central line of the scooter. In practice, this means one tail light mounted centrally, or twin lights mounted either side. Side mount taillights aren’t allowed, although there is no restriction on number plates being mounted to one side as long as there is a white light illuminating it, which doesn’t shine to the rear of the vehicle. The regulations say that any scooter first registered after April 1, 1986 should have brake lights that work from both brake controls. They also, and conveniently, accept that there were machines registered after this date, which only had a single brake light. As a result, if the tester isn’t certain that the machine was originally equipped with two, then benefit of the doubt shall be given. I’m not going to go further down that route, but it’s a useful thing to know. Just be warned that testers aren’t stupid, and know how to find
The tester is looking for a straight and solid frame. Any bends along the spine leading to the frame being twisted between the rear and handlebars will lead to a fail
and read a wiring diagram which will show if there probably should be one. To pass the test, brake lights need to go on and off instantly, and any delay will cause a problem. You’ll also fail if the light is dim, or the lens is cracked enough to cast white light behind the machine.
All rear mounted lights shall show red. Fails: ■ Lights incorrectly mounted ■ Brake light only operating from one control on machines registered after the given date, assuming there is visible wiring ■ Dim lights ■ Incorrect colour light showing.
Indicators
There has been something of a misunderstanding over the spacing of indicators at the rear of the scooter. This has now been resolved, and the space between them is now fixed at 240mm separation at the front, and 180 at the rear. Separation refers to the distance between inside edges of the lens.
The only other real item that affects us is the speed of the flash and the colour. Anything between 60 and 120 a minute is fine, and anything other is only a minor, though. Coloured lenses are fine for testing purposes, provided they illuminate orange when operated. Fails: ■ Incorrect colour when illuminated ■ Too close together.
Frame
The tester is looking for a straight and solid frame. Any bends along the spine of the scooter leading to the frame being twisted between rear and handlebars, or any excessive corrosion, will lead to a fail. Excessive corrosion is generally accepted as meaning ‘on a structural part’, so those of you with scabby legshields and panels are fine. A rusty surface isn’t enough to fail an MOT test, although the examiner can check for severity using small tools.
Fails: ■ Obvious twisting in the frame ■ Excessive rust or holes in the main
chassis.
Exhaust
This needs to be solid – though a slight leakage from a pinhole or slip joint is allowed – and mounted securely. Any exhaust marked ‘For Race Use Only’, or similar is a fail unless it can be shown that it doesn’t make noticeably more noise than a similar machine of the same age that hasn’t had one fitted. This is a bit of a grey area, and most MOT testers seem to take the view that they should lean towards the benefit of the doubt, something that comes as a bit of a result for most of us!
Fails: ■ Insecure mounting ■ Holes ■ Excessively loud ■ Marked ‘Not for road use’, ‘Race only’
or similar.
Fuel system
This is the final item to be tested. The tester will look at whether the tank is secure or not, that there are no leaks from the tank itself or the pipe, and that the pipe isn’t rubbing or chaffing against any other component.
On a scooter, most of this is a given as a large part is often out of sight, particularly on Vespas, but any sign of fuel leakage is a fail, regardless of whether it can be seen at source or in a puddle on the floor. Given the price of fuel, who wants to throw it away anyway?
Fails: ■ Fuel lines chaffing ■ Leaking fuel line ■ Insecure fasteners ■ Fuel leaking from any part of
the system.