Scootering

Two-stroke (2T) oil

- Laurie Vaughan Cheam Cheetahs SC LML Owners Club of Great Britain Technical advice and essential running

After 30-odd years of painfully enjoying scooters (and of course what comes with them), owners – both new and old – frequently ask me the question: “So which is the best oil to use?” Sadly, it’s one of those questions that never seems to have a straightfo­rward answer!

The mere subject of 2T oil still remains one of the most talked-about on the scooter scene today (well, that and the infamous ‘What tyres?’)

So let's have a brief look at this – but I'm going to tread a bit carefully because finding the best or perfect oil for any specific scooter can be a minefield! [Note: the informatio­n I have sort of ‘hoovered up’ comes from a variety of sources. I have tried to stick to the more popular and wellknown brands as these seem to be the most readily available].

BACK IN THE SADDLE...

For a brief synopsis, both modern and classic two-stroke engines place high demands on oil. Heat seizures have been known to happen through incorrect or very poor quality oil; so as a starting point, I guess we should set the scene.

2T oil varies hugely in comparison with 4T, so we'll need to look at what 2T actually does for a living, so to speak. So a quick bit of science and then we'll move on.

2T oils have a sole purpose of lubricatin­g both the crankshaft and pistons and the oil is used on a ‘total loss basis' where it is burned completely during the combustion process. A good point of note right there!

Our friends over in Japan have developed a sensible guide for oils known as the JASO rating (JASO = Japanese Automotive Standards Organisati­on) – see example picture on final page of this article. The ratings come in the form of two letters namely FA, FB, FC and FD (FA being the lowest classifica­tion, with FC being the highest and FB falling somewhere in the middle, FD is pretty much the same as FC but with higher detergent properties).

It's always a good plan to start with your owner's manual. Find out what oil, if any, is recommende­d. If in doubt or unavailabl­e, internet sites and dealers generally offer sound advice, but try to gather as many options and prices as you can as dealers generally recommend what they sell. As a failsafe, try to at least match the manufactur­er's recommenda­tion via the JASO rating, as this will keep your scooter pretty much where it needs to be lubricatio­n-wise.

PISTONS AT DAWN

(Mineral versus semi-synthetic versus fully synthetic oil)

MINERAL-BASED OILS are basically the cheapest (and often deemed nastiest) on the market. This type of oil is normally found in hardware/discount stores or garden centres. Oil like this is used in lawnmowers, agricultur­al equipment, or by the scooterist who simply does not know (usually not by fault of their own as sometimes the product label on the bottle will show a picture of a scooter next to the aforementi­oned equipment!).

These oils can leave substantia­l residue and some of them smoke quite horrendous­ly. I tend to avoid them at all costs – but there is an argument that the lubricatio­n properties of mineral-based oil are better than some synthetics (although this is doubted by many, given the cost). Price guide can be anything from £2.99 to £5.99 a litre.

SEMI-SYNTHETIC OILS are next up and some of these are really good – make no mistake. Sometimes labelled as ‘blended' or ‘synthetic blend' they have earned their place in the market. Companies such as Fuchs, Shell, Castrol, Mobil and Putoline have all had versions and you frequently see their product stands at scooter rallies and motorcycle shows.

Semi-synthetics are good at helping ‘pinking engines' as the burning properties are slightly slower than mineral-based oils. However, it brings us back to the JASO rating, as we have now learned that it's this that determines the quality. Price guide £6.99-£10.99 per litre.

FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL is often regarded as the ‘nectar' or ‘champagne' of oils. These are the most expensive as they offer the best properties for lubricatio­n and protection. They are cleaner burning and arguably the best type of oil for any 2T engine.

Rock Oil, Selenia (Petronas), Motul and Shell all boast a superb ‘fully synth' and if the truth be known, these are the most likely oils you'll see in the glovebox, garages and sheds of the serious scooterist. Environmen­tal factors are creeping in everywhere and there is no doubt that these oils are cleaner burning. Price guide £9.99-£15 per litre.

SO IS IT BAGS OF GOLD OR BANG FOR BUCKS?

Well this decision is very much up to the owner really. Wallets and purses generally have the final say, but (and mark this part well) using poor quality or incorrect type oil can be an engine's grim reaper.

While the extra expense seems painful, it may well save you more in the long run by preventing premature engine wear. Also with the better oils you do get sweeter performanc­e, albeit marginal. Carbon deposits and ‘pea-souper' smoke clouds are somewhat reduced.

A point well worthy of a mention is the oil you choose for your scooter's injector system.

Many of the higher quality oils like Rock Oil Synthesis have been designed for competitio­n use and designed for pre-mixing with petrol. These oils have a different viscosity and are not so well suited for autolube vehicles. However, Rock Oil sells both types – ‘Injector' for autolube and ‘Pre-mix' for race use. Simply check suitabilit­y before you buy.

SUNDANCE SKID

Many cold nights (and occasional hot summers) have taught me to use the best oil I can afford which basically means ‘I can't afford to risk my engine'. Rock Oil Synthesis has sort of been my ‘go-to' for years – it's exceptiona­l stuff and like honey to a bee. The only downside is that it's a plain brown colour. Many oil companies use a red dye in their oil, as this aids the diagnostic­s and detection of oil leaks. If the leak is red it's a 2T oil leak, if it's brown (or stained black) it's generally transmissi­on oil.

If you can get it, Shell Advance is superb as petrol station forecourt oils go and it comes in as cheapest of the fully synthetics. Definitely worth a punt if you want fully synthetic but cashflow is a factor.f I have seen it available onlineo in 0.5ltr bottles whichw is great for the g glovebox!

SIP does an excellent oil and if you do the detective stuff, bulk-buying deals can often be had. It has an excellent JASO rating and works well in both pre-mix or auto-lube systems. Good stuff from our friends in Germany.

FINALLY, A LITTLE FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Oil will always be an emotive and beer debate subject for the masses. I guess it boils down to just how much the owner is prepared to spend and the availabili­ty if needed quickly. For me, it's a simple no-brainer when you factor in what the oil actually does.

The tired old workhorse scooter absolutely deserves the ‘champagne' until its retirement, after all it has earned it. However, to put £1.99 gunge stuff in a £7000 pride and joy? Let's face it – why would you?

Take care of yourselves – like you do your scooters! ‘See Yers!'

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You pays yer money and your takes yer choice...
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