How to stop pollution ageing your skin
Every day your skin is exposed to more than 200 airborne pollutants and the bad news is that they’re ageing you. Fast. These particles of polluted air react with your skin, causing it to sag, wrinkle and lose hydration even faster than its natural rate. But the good news is that the beauty industry is finally waking up to the scale of the problem and there are products promising to protect you.
And there’s no doubt that pollution is a problem. Last week, the World Health Organisation revealed that eight in ten towns and cities across Britain have dangerously high levels of pollution.
According to the dermatologist and medical director of eudelo Clinic, Dr Stefanie Williams: ‘Minuscule particles in the air can actually penetrate the skin’s epidermis.’
These tiny particles contain high levels of very reactive molecules, known as free radicals and, once they’ve found their way under the top layer of your skin, they react with the molecules in your skin, breaking down collagen. They can also cause hyperpigmentation — or dark patches — on the skin.
And you can’t relax even if you’re out of the urban sprawl. Car emissions, fertilisers and industry fumes mean the countryside is just as bad for your skin.
While your skin contains some natural antioxidants (such as a compound called glutathione), these are not sufficient to combat the onslaught of air pollution without help. But do any of the products that promise to protect you really work?
The make-up
Bourjois City Radiance Skin Protecting Foundation SPF 30, £9.99, boots.com THE CLAIM: This lightweight foundation promises to form a protective glycofilm (a light barrier between the environment and skin) that prevents pollution particles from sticking to the skin and penetrating through. EXPERT VERDICT: ‘This product contains a mix of chemical and physical Uv filters,’ says Dr Stefanie Williams. Physical filters reflect the damaging rays away from the skin and chemical ones absorb it.
‘I think this is a little more scientific than a bog-standard foundation,’ says aesthetic expert Dr Hilary Allan at Woodford Medical.
It doesn’t seal the skin completely, but it stops penetration of the very tiny particles.
The shampoo
JF Lazartigue Anti-Pollution Frequent Use Shampoo, £16.99, jflazargigue.co.uk THE CLAIM: eliminates the buildup of polluting particles as well as detoxifying the hair and scalp. EXPERT VERDICT: Consultant trichologist Iain Sallis says: ‘We know that pollutants get into the hair cuticle and may dull hair, but they’re unlikely to warrant a special product. ‘Shampoos to remove impurities have been around for a long time, using agents that pull them out of hair. ‘If you don’t feel like splashing out, you could try a swim shampoo, which ought to perform much the same task.’ He suggests Boots’ Sun, Swim and Gym Shampoo (£3.29, boots.com).
The colour corrector
Lancome City Miracle CC Cream SPF 50, £29, johnlewis.com THE CLAIM: CC creams are colour correcting. This one contains vital sun protection and black tea — a powerful antioxidant. EXPERT VERDICT: Dr Williams says: ‘The broad spectrum SPF 50 is brilliant, the anti- oxidants are good, but it also contains a few potential irritants, such as a compound called geraniol.’
The recovery cream
Avon Anew Clinical E-Defence Multi-Shield SPF 50 Day Lotion, £20, and Avon Anew Clinical E-Defence Deep Recovery Cream, £20, avon.uk.com THE CLAIM: This range promises to boost the levels of antioxidants in the skin, working day and night to keep skin protected and nourished.
The day cream contains a high concentration of antioxidant ingredients such as green tea polyphenols, as well as a skin-brightening ingredient. EXPERT VERDICT: ‘This lotion contains a mix of various antioxidants that includes green tea,’ says Dr Williams.
‘There are also plenty of polyphenolic flavonoids that have a range of anti-inflammatory properties. Broad spectrum SPF 50 is a bonus.
‘There is some evidence the antioxidants in green tea may help to scavenge free radicals,’ says Dr Allan. The SPF in the day and antioxidant at night will boost this product’s effectiveness.
The face wash
Clarins Extra-Comfort Anti-Pollution Cleansing Cream, £22, escentual.com THE CLAIM: Contains antioxidant moringa extract and soothing and moisturising shea and mango butter — excellent for skin weakened by pollution. EXPERT VERDICT: ‘This seems a decent cleanser for normal to dry skin.
‘It contains antioxidants, though, of course, in a cleanser they will be washed away to some extent,’ says Dr Williams
‘I’m very interested in the moringa,’ says Dr Allan. ‘It has detoxifying qualities and is an ingredient to watch.’ Benefit Air Patrol BB Cream Eyelid Primer SPF 20, £21.50, feelunique.com THE CLAIM: This will help defend delicate eyelids against environmental stress, protecting them from sun, smoke and pollutants. EXPERT VERDICT: ‘I have my doubts that what appears to be a rather small concentration of antioxidants will do enough to protect from long-term pollution damage,’ says Dr Williams.
‘enviro Defend is a made-up name,’ says Dr Allan. ‘It sounds good, but the ingredients are standard. The most active appears to be a bark extract. There is also the mineral titanium dioxide, which protects from Uv light.’
This has antioxidant properties that are being further investigated.
Clinique’s Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour eye Colour (£20.50,
clinique.co.uk) also contains protecting antioxidants and comes in five pretty shades.