AN INSPECTOR CALLS

HURLEY House Hotel is a brand-new venture in Berkshire on the busy A4130 between Maidenhead and Henley. It sits on the site once occupied by the Red Lyon pub — and its Syrian-born owner, Bassam Shlewet (who sold his TTT Moneycorp Group some years ago to RBS) is determined to succeed.

Everything is pristine; the staff are dedicated; there’s lots of outdoor space with a barbecue area and the food is sensational. I haven’t had such a good dinner in yonks (‘blowtorched Brixham mackerel tartare with celeriac remoulade, apple and horseradish’ to start, followed by Windsor Estate roe deer as a main).

But that might be expected, given that the ex-Michelinstarred Michael Chapman (formerly of the Royal Oak at Paley Street) is in the kitchen.

‘He’s out to get one here,’ says a charming woman who escorts me to my room, of which there are ten in total.

I ask her if Hurley House is a so-called boutique hotel or restaurant with rooms. ‘The aim is to have a traditional pub atmosphere with a great restaurant and lovely rooms upstairs,’ she says.

Room 6 is indeed a charmer (I’m upgraded without having to ask), with muted colours, nothing on the walls and large bathroom (Floris smellies) with free-standing tub and walk-in shower.

Strangely, the bedside lights go on and off on their own accord, a small teething issue. Downstairs, the pub element is enormous, but with plenty of little nooks and crannies, a woodburner and inviting central bar with beer pumps galore.

I like the wine list, too, chosen by the former sommelier of the Harwood Arms in London, another Michelin restaurant.

Breakfast is served in a small side room off the main bar. The buffet is a little spartan and certainly not up to the imaginative standards of dinner the night before.

Then, just as my coffee arrives, a man walks up and introduces himself.

‘I’m the owner,’ he says. ‘And I wonder if you can tell me exactly what you think of my hotel.’

Mr Shlewet really wants to know. I tell him about the flickering lights and he says he’ll sleep in Room 6 himself tonight to find out the problem first hand. I mention the breakfast and he says it will be served in the main dining room in future.

He’s full of enthusiasm, open (‘I spent £6 million on it and it took only a year-and-a-half to build from scratch’) and I leave hoping that Hurley House will be a triumph.

I’m sure it will.