The secret of a posh pud? Whisky!

MARY BERRY was recently accused of being ‘too posh’ because she featured venison and langoustines on her BBC cookery programme. Let’s hope her critics never get their horny hands on a copy of the Countess of Carnarvon’s new book, At Home At Highclere: Entertaining at the Real Downtown Abbey (Penguin, £30!).

The book weighs as much as a roast ox and within its glossy pages, Lady Carnarvon (left) lifts the silver cloche on aristo cooking and entertaining at Highclere, the ravishing pile where Downton Abbey was filmed.

The Earl and Countess of Carnarvon live in a world where the grand style has not entirely disappeared. Savoury jellies are put to chill in copper moulds stamped with the Carnarvon crest and the Earl’s favourite pudding is made of blackberries, cream and enough whisky to stun a midshipman.

Here, kidneys are devilled, eels are stewed and omelettes are made with eggs from Lady C’s hens, who are all named after heroines in Jane Austen novels.

There is an asparagus mousse which would earn Mrs Patmore’s approval and the occasional, accidental condescending approach to the cooking instructions.

‘Our chef prefers to use sage to flavour his sausage rolls but you can use any herb you like,’ writes Lady C in the Savouries section. Meanwhile, the recipe for elderflower cordial begins: ‘You will need a ladder, a trug, some scissors and a good, dry morning.’

Kitchen secrets? The countess splashes vinegar on sliced cucumbers for her crustless sandwiches, a Bloody Mary without alcohol is called a Bloody Shame and sometimes Luis the butler swaps lemonade for champagne in the Pimms mix. Highclere even has its own peach house — perfect for supplying the fruit for springtime Bellinis.

How marvellous, but at my age, as the Dowager Countess Violet once said, one must ration one’s excitement.