How the beauty world woke up to the menopause (at last!)
Apink complexion thanks to endless hot flushes. Waking up with dark circles after another restless night’s sleep. And a sudden acne break-out because of a surge in hormones.
These may all be common symptoms of the menopause, but did you know there’s a beauty arsenal to help combat them? Beauty companies are finally wising up to the fact that midlife complexions demand a whole new genre of skincare.
‘Menopause triggers hormonal skin changes that both accelerate ageing and cause skin discomfort,’ says Jamie Rosenberg, global skincare analyst at market analyst Mintel.
‘Brands are realising the potential of marketing around this life-stage. Those that can successfully relieve menopausal symptoms may win the loyalty of older post-menopausal consumers.’
Skincare expert and facialist Joanne Evans agrees. ‘During the menopause, women need a product that is calming, soothing and non-aggressive,’ she says.
‘it’s a time when skin can be really sensitive, or dry one minute and then break out the next. Rosacea can also kick in because of hot flushes. As our oestrogen levels drop, our skin becomes thinner and we lose nearly a third of our collagen.
‘This means skin doesn’t have the bounce-back ability it once had and its moisture and glow are harder to restore.’
As a perimenopausal 49-year-old, whose skin is noticeably drier, thinner, more lined and breakout-prone than before, i put some of the new ranges to the test . . .
SPOT ZAPPER
Stratum C Menopause Spot Relief, £25
WHAT IS IT? it’s thought that 70 per cent of menopausal women suffer breakouts, but most spot creams are designed for teenagers and can dry out older skin.
This gentle, but powerful, lotion contains acne-zapping salicylic acid, plus sulphur and zinc to reduce inflammation and soothe. it’s free of parabens and other nasties and the company behind it, Forme Laboratories, uses only the mildest of preservatives, which is perfect if you are worried about heavier formulations clogging pores.
WHAT IS IT LIKE: i felt as though i had discovered a vial of magic potion when i dabbed this night-time clay-like lotion onto a whopper of a spot on my chin. There’s often little you can do with painful and classically hormonal, deep spots, apart from wait it out.
This lotion cuts down the waiting time dramatically. By morning the redness and size of my spot were greatly reduced. There was no drying or flaking, making it easier to hide with concealer. 10/10
MATTIFYING OIL
Vichy Neovadiol Magistral Elixir, 30ml, £30
WHAT IS IT: During the menopause, skin can feel uncomfortably dry and tight as hormonal changes cause a loss of lipids and moisture. This non-greasy mixture of three oils — rice bran oil, shea butter and zafflower oil — is rich in omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids to restore lost lipids. it’s part of Vichy’s replenishing neovadiol range, whose claim is to provide comfort and hydration to skin during and post menopause and fight visible signs of hormonal ageing. WHAT IS IT LIKE: Having very dry skin, i use buckets of face oil to stop my skin feeling tight, but can’t normally use it in the morning as it makes my foundation slide off by midday. This Elixir, however, is a ‘dry oil’, meaning it has a satin rather than ‘gloss’ finish and a fine texture. i put it on first thing and it sank in without stickiness and with no foundation slippage to report.
it felt extremely comfortable and left my skin supple with a more youthful glow. My lines, especially frown lines, were noticeably less furrowed. 9/10
HOT FLUSH MASK
B. Nourished Cooling & Soothing Mask, £6.99
WHAT IS IT? When menopause sends your internal thermostat awry, your skin can feel hot, red and blotchy. A cooling mask with ‘Redyless’, an ‘innovative ingredient clinically proven to control temporary and persistent redness’, sounds like a dream for stressed skin.
This lightly scented thick gel, part of Superdrug’s B. nourished Skin phase Four range aimed at women in their 50s and 60s, can be applied during the day or in a thick layer as a night mask. WHAT IS IT LIKE: Soothing witch hazel and moisturising hyaluronic acid make this the skincare equivalent of a cold flannel. it was like a sigh of relief for my face, offering an instant cooling effect.
When applied in a thick layer at night, it’s too sticky for my liking — my cheek stuck to the pillow — but in a thinner layer for daytime it felt soothing and comfortable.
if excess shine is an issue, this is a good choice as it does appear to mattify without drying. And the price is unbeatable — everything in the range is under £15. 6.5/10
LIFTING EYE SERUM
Nurture Replenish Eye Serum, 15ml, £12.95
WHAT IS IT? Eye bags and drooping lids are a fact of menopausal life as collagen begins to desert this most delicate skin area. Eyes can appear more droopy, if weighed down by heavy creams, but this eye serum is light and fine and contains natural phytoestrogens to replace lost oestrogen and boost collagen. WHAT IS IT LIKE? Light in texture and fragrance-free, this reduced the puffiness around my eyes slightly after a week, but my dark circles hadn’t changed. 7.5/10
HAIR VOLUMISER
Plantur 39 Phyto-Caffeine Shampoo, £9.75, Conditioner, £7.65, and Tonic, £10.49, all 250ml
WHAT IS IT? Over the age of 40, oestrogen levels fall, losing their buffering effect against the male hormone testosterone. This can cause hair loss and thinning.
The plantur 39 range is designed to be used from the earliest signs of hair loss and thinning from age 40 onwards to help us hang on to our precious locks for longer.
A ‘phyto-Caffeine’ complex in the shampoo and scalp tonic claims to penetrate the hair follicle and protect the hair roots from premature exhaustion and from the effects of testosterone.
WHAT IS IT LIKE? The shampoo and conditioner come in two formulations: ‘Fine and Brittle’ and ‘Colour Treated and Stressed’.
For a week, i tried the latter, which is slightly richer and left my hair feeling soft. The shampoo needs to be left on for two minutes for the ingredients to penetrate the scalp.
i’d need to try it for three to four months to notice a change in my hair growth, but a Gp i know swears by it.
i’m optimistic given trials in more than 1,000 women showed 57 per cent noticed a reduction in hair loss and/or hair thinning after three months. 8/10