Why we want what they’re wearing
. . . because these trendsetting designers who’ve set up their own labels are ALL women
Who knows better what makes a woman look and feel her best than, well, a woman? We know the intricacies involved in hiding bingo wings, the horror of a creased bottom, how to maximize colour and that nothing zaps confidence faster than a manhandled cleavage.
Men historically might have headed up the biggest fashion houses, but now it’s women who are carrying them through the 21st century.
It might have taken Dior 70 years, but in 2016 they hired their first female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Givenchy named its first last year — Clare Waight Keller.
Meanwhile, fresh, new labels are popping up, headed by women determined to give us the cuts and silhouettes we want and their influence is already filtering down on to the high Street. here, seven of our leading female designers reveal their style secrets.
STRIPES THAT SLIM AND FLATTER
WHO? Clare hornby of ME+EM. KNOWN FOR: Injecting glamour into the basics. Each piece is curated for a woman’s body, not a man’s eye. The relaxed fit trousers have side stripes which elongate the leg — a design-trick widely copied in Zara and elsewhere. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: The Duchess of Cambridge wore three ME+EM Breton tops, dubbed the miracle top, which led to 5,000-strong waiting lists. CLARE SAYS: ‘There is a reason why our trouser sales are up something like 320 per cent year on year. We have a trouser manifesto, which is all about the cut — whether it is for a wide leg crop or a man pant or cigarette shape.
‘So many brands just cater for young girls or wealthy women. We design with a real women’s shape in mind. Everyone wants to look as slim and tall as possible. For us, it is all about the cut.
‘I also love a layering undershirt — a quick way to update a plain coloured, black or navy jumper.
‘I had the idea while watching a hockey match and my shirt kept blowing up in the wind. ours has a thin jersey body to keep you warm, a zip back and the white collar allows you to wear colour nearer to your face.’
BOLD PRINTS FOR MUMS AND DAUGHTERS
WHO? henrietta Rix, a former buyer for ASoS, who set up Rixo with orlagh McCloskey. KNOWN FOR: hand-painted prints and impossibly feminine, Seventies-inspired silhouettes. And the constellation print silk frock that spawned the hard-to-get £45 Marks & Spencer homage. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Made In Chelsea’s Millie Mackintosh has worn their designs on the red carpet and Christine Lampard wore a printed silk dress for a TV appearance earlier this month. HENRIETTA SAYS: ‘I get so frustrated when women over a certain age think they can’t wear some fashions or bold prints. If you had great style in your 20s and 30s, that doesn’t just disappear.
‘Many of our customers are in their 50s and 60s and mothers and daughters say they share items.
‘Prints look good on all shapes and sizes (you don’t have to be a size 8 supermodel) and that’s part of the reason we have been so successful. The key is to avoid pockets on the hips or waist, which can look bulky, and stick to lightweight fabrics such as silks or cottons. If you’re nervous or new to prints, play about with plainer options such as navy polka dots, stars or leopard print and work your way up. Above all, be brave!
KILLER MIDI DRESSES FOR DAY TO NIGHT
WHO? Libby hart, who launched her label Libby London seven years ago after working her way to the top in investment banking. KNOWN FOR: Killer midi dresses that transcend the nine-to-five. The Libby London mantra is dressing demurely but not too ‘mumsy’ and still looking womanly — like a reinvigorated Roland Mouret but with a savvier edge. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Presenter holly Willoughby has worn a variety of Libby London dresses on ITV’s This Morning. LIBBY SAYS: ‘There are four key principles to the perfect dress: hemline, neckline, sleeve length and fabric choice. Everything I design has to tick each box.
‘The hemline should be below your knee, but tapered so it looks tailored rather than mumsy and doesn’t ride up.
‘People should be listening to what you are saying in meetings, not staring at your undergarments. A three-quarter sleeve is a flattering, all-yearround winner.
‘Nothing ruins a dress quicker than slinging over a grotty cardigan when you get cold. Just don’t — use a jacket!
‘Forgo a cleavage (it’s distracting) and invest in top-quality synthetic fabric dresses. Polyester has improved immeasurably since my parents’ generation.
‘A silk shirtdress which you wear once then can’t be bothered to dry clean is a poor investment.’
SMART SEPARATES AT SMART PRICES
WHO? M&S’s first female director (she launched Autograph), Kim Winser turned around Pringle, Aquascutum and Agent Provocateur before going it alone to launch Winser London in 2013.
KNOWN FOR: Prioritising what women want: dependable fashion regardless of age or body type.
CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: A favourite of model Yasmin Le Bon and actresses Gillian Anderson and Emma Watson — the latter of whom is rarely out of Winser
London cashmere and wore one of Kim’s trenches to the Oscars. KIM SAYS: ‘What women want is to feel confident when they get dressed. They want to look fashionable, up-to-date, but feel comfortable and know the item will last and last.
‘Trousers are not easy. Forget silly, one-season styles and think about them fitting every part of your lower body perfectly, not just your waist.
‘If you’re tall, buy wide-leg trousers with a deep hem so you can let them down without changing the overall shape — we make our trousers this way.
‘On the whole, a tapered leg is more versatile as you can wear it with flats or high heels. My sisterin-law is 5ft 2in tall and wears narrow capris as regular trousers. If you’re petite, it’s a great solution when buying trousers. Once you’ve found the perfect shape, buy pairs in every colour.’
WHY SIX IS THE MAGIC NUMBER
WHO? Polly McMaster completed a PhD in molecular biology at Cambridge University before working in private equity and starting The Fold in 2011. KNOWN FOR: Contemporary, yet classic, clothing for modern working women. Smart, unfussy lines that project authority without looking severe. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: A favourite of Samantha Cameron, who wore The Hamptons emerald green wrap dress to a Conservative Party manifesto launch. POLLY SAYS: ‘Clothing reflects your image and personal brand. It’s a personal armour. If you know you look good, it follows through in everything you do.
‘No one wants to feel flustered in the morning, yet research we did with the London School of Business found that 50 per cent of women put something on, then change before leaving the house.
‘I’m a fan of cultivating a capsule wardrobe of six dependable items in similar colours and fabrics (wool-blends are best with a bit of stretch because they are comfy and smart), which you can mix and match to look well-groomed without thinking.
‘Base it on what you’d pack for a three-day trip away: one piece of knitwear, a pair of jeans, a tailored top, one smart pair of trousers, a dress and fabulous jacket or coat.
‘Invest in each and spend a bit more to get them altered to fit you perfectly. I want to encourage people to make better choices and build smaller wardrobes rather than having hundreds of things that never get worn. It’s about buying well so the pieces last.’
SHOES YOU CAN WALK (AND RUN) IN
WHO? Now known as the ‘Queen of flats’, Penelope Chilvers started her business at the kitchen table. KNOWN FOR: Beautiful — and sturdy — footwear with bohemian tassels and neon flashes. Penelope still uses a traditional, 150-yearold shoe-making method that ensures careful layering and stitching around the sole, meaning the more wear a shoe gets the more comfortable it becomes. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: The Duchess of Cambridge has worn the Long Tassel boot for years. Cate Blanchett and Keira Knightley also love her footwear. PENELOPE SAYS: ‘I like the opposite of obvious: flats with evening dresses and heels with jeans. But women should feel empowered to run anywhere and do anything in their footwear.
‘Boots should have the perfect silhouette and be purposeful and made for real life. Where they end on your leg is important. Petite women, like me, should choose cropped ankle boots to elongate their legs.
‘Those with longer legs can manage higher cut boots, which will have a lengthening effect on the leg. A chunky sole can make a woman look petite and cool. But those with bigger ankles should avoid them stopping there: go above or below.