AN INSPECTOR CALLS

He pays his way and tells it like it is

ON THE single-track road leading to Monachyle Mhor, we come to a halt. There’s congestion ahead — as cows are being herded from one field to another.

An elderly farmer apologises for the delay, but there’s no need. It helps us get in the groove for what’s to come at this delightful, family-owned, lochside hotel at Balquhidder, far enough away from the hordes at Loch Lomond, but easily accessible from both Edinburgh and Glasgow.

It’s also an easy drive to nearby Loch Katrine, where Sir Walter Scott wrote Lady Of The Lake (boat ride on the loch highly recommended).

In the Eighties, Rob and Jean Lewis upped sticks from Abergavenny and bought this pink-fronted farmhouse and surrounding land on Loch Voil. Keen to acquire an Aga, they raised funds by offering tea and scones to passers-by.

Tea and scones became simple meals; simple meals became beds for the night; and then they applied for a drinks licence and suddenly it was a hotel.

Since then, it has branched out in all kinds of directions: a shop, a bakery, a spring music festival, fish-and-chip van, even an outpost in France.

Rob and Jean’s son Tom and his wife

are now in charge. ‘Are they from Sweden?’ my wife keeps asking various members of staff. They aren’t, but I get the point. Rooms are uncluttered; neutral colours abound, the atmosphere is relaxed; there’s an evident love of the great outdoors and the food is sensational.

A Danish family is on the next table and the twentysomething girl is tearful. She keeps leaving, then coming back to the table.

But next morning all seems well as they head off for a hike. If you’re feeling down in the dumps, Monachyle Mhor is exactly where you want to be.

Monachyle Mhor Hotel Balquhidder Lochearnhead Perthshire FK19 8PQ monachylemhor.net, 01877 384 622 Doubles from £195 B&B