MOVED BY MONA LISA
A stop-off at the Louvre proves an epiphany as CHRISTOPHER MOONEY visits Paris for first time
IT may be the world’s most famous painting, but the Mona Lisa will forever divide opinion. While Leonardo da Vinci is widely seen as a genius, there are some who disagree.
Leonardo suffered from imposter syndrome himself, so who can blame those who doubt his greatest work?
Advocates of the painter’s genius praise the ‘mysterious smile’ of the Mona Lisa, the optical illusion that draws one’s sight to her lips.
I have to be honest, I’m no expert when it comes to art, masterpieces or otherwise. But Paris changed me. More precisely, the Mona Lisa changed me.
Standing in front of her in an over-sized white room in the Louvre, I couldn’t help but be mesmerised, emotional even. I felt elation at being so close to this great work, not close enough to touch – due to the crowd barriers – but closer than I ever expected.
My epiphany topped off a glorious trip to the magnificent French capital with my mother, Margaret, and brother, John.
We had flown the very convenient hour-and-a-bit from Edinburgh to immerse ourselves in Parisian culture for the first time.
We made our way to the Louvre by way of a stunning walk down the Champs-Elysees after first visiting the Arc de Triomphe.
Commissioned by Napoleon, it is typically ostentatious. The eternal flame marking the spot of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is a poignant reminder that the glories of war aren’t all that glorious.
Paris is awash with memorials to conquest, but the Germans stopped short of marching through the victory arch during their invasion, respecting the war dead by walking around.
The view from the top is worth every one of the 284 steps it takes to get there. Standing in the middle of 12 avenues, the whole of Paris meets you smack in the face in full panoramic splendour, from the domes of Montmartre to the stunning Eiffel Tower and the modern skyscrapers of the city’s financial district, which in typical French style has its own arch to wonder at. It gives you a great perspective on where you want to go – and in what order.
The metro system affords cheap and comfortable access to the best sights. We rarely waited longer than five minutes for a train. Various passes combining travel and sights can be purchased via the tourist board website before you travel to Paris.
We chose the Paris Museum Pass, which included visits to the Eiffel Tower and the Palace of Versailles, for our three-day trip.
We stayed at the four-star Hotel Trianon Rive Gauche in the Latin Quarter, just a short walk from the Sorbonne and the parkland of Le Jardin du Luxembourg.
Our twin room, while small, had all the charm of a converted Parisian apartment block and a view of the Eiffel Tower.
The hotel is also just a brief walk to the spectacular Notre-Dame cathedral, although access will be restricted for some time after April’s devastating fire.
After three packed days, it felt like we had barely scratched the surface of this amazing city.
Which gives us a great excuse to return. There is plenty more art to discover, after all.