What to see and do
÷ Storm the castles
SLOVAKIA’S capital is overlooked by the handsome Bratislava Castle (tickets £9). For an even more romantic experience, take the fivemile trip to Devin Castle (£4, muzeum.bratislava.sk) — it’s a ruin fit for a Byronic ode. There are also some jolly activities for the young at heart, including a run-thegauntlet installation, which involves dodging swinging sacks of sand.
÷ Explore the old town
VISIT St Martin’s Cathedral (free, dom.fara.sk), which has hosted the crowning of ten Hungarian kings. Oddly, a motorway passes a few feet away — built by the Communists in a gesture of disrespect.
Another old-town highlight is Michael’s Gate (£4, visitbratislava. com/places/michaels-gate). Ascend its spiral staircase, taking in the weapons museum, then emerge to gaze out over the city’s bright red rooftops.
÷ The island of art
IN BRATISLAVA itself, the Nedbalka Gallery of Slovak art (£4) is worth a look. But a far better bet is to make the trip to the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum (£9,
danubiana.sk).
Founded in 2000, this gallery is situated spectacularly, 12 miles south of the city on an island in the Danube. It’s devoted to modern works by middle-European artists, ranging from the bizarre to the stunning. Highly recommended.
÷ Fruits of the forest
FANCY a walk in the woods? Just a couple of miles out of town, the sprawling Koliba Forest, dense with oak and beech, is like something out of a fairy story. There’s an excellent playground for children, as well as a summer bobsleigh run, which is pretty thrilling whatever your age (bobodraha.sk).
÷ Ascend to outer space
IN 1972, someone thought it was a good idea to build a structure that makes it look as if a flying saucer is about to attack Bratislava. And they were right.
You pay £7 to ascend in a lift to the striking modernist UFO Restaurant (pronounced locally as ‘oof-o’). From there, you get a dazzling view of the city and the Danube below — and, if you’re peckish, a decent burger, too (£10, u-f-o.sk).