SUMMER IN THE CITY
With foreign tourists staying away, now’s the time to explore Britain’s blissfully uncrowded cities — and there are hotel bargains on offer, too...
SANDY beaches, ice creams, fish and chips, amusement arcades, or rolling hills with footpaths and baking countryside . . . these are the traditional ingredients for a UK summer break.
But think again. 2020 could be the perfect year to visit some of Britain’s great cities, with high streets quieter than ever and hotels offering tempting deals.
It’s true that some attractions remain closed, but there’s more than enough of interest for a long weekend away. So here’s our guide of the top picks this summer.
AULD REEKIE IN AUGUST
IN AUGUST, the capital is usually in the throes of the Festival Fringe. So if you are after peace and quiet and one of the country’s finest cities, this is the year to go to Edinburgh. All is calm on Princes Street and George Street.
Take your pick of tables at the pubs on Rose Street. Saunter down the Royal Mile without the crowds. Enjoy the silence as you take in the impressive views from Arthur’s Seat or Calton Hill.
The excellent markets — Grassmarket, Stockbridge and Leith — are all open.
TOP ATTRACTION: Edinburgh’s spectacular castle re-opens today. Adults £15.50, children £9.30 (edinburghcastle.scot).
WHERE TO STAY: The Bonham Hotel in the
West End has B&B doubles from £125 (thebonham.com).
YORKSHIRE CORKER
YORK Minster has re-opened — and it’s unmissable on any visit. This staggering example of medieval architecture was completed in 1472, with a 235 ft tower and five lancet windows more than 50 ft high.
The River Ouse cuts through York, bypassing the city walls and overlooked by Clifford’s Tower — which you can visit again from today for the best views.
Families are also able enjoy the Dungeon and city ghost tours again — and shops on the Shambles are back in action.
TOP ATTRACTION: York is surrounded by beautiful countryside full of places to visit such as Castle Howard, Newby Hall and Dalby Forest.
WHERE TO STAY: Doubles at the Principal York from £116 (phcompany.com).
CROWDLESS BATH
JANE AUSTEN connections, a Gothic abbey and the Guildhall Market await in Bath — although the famous Roman Baths remain closed.
But there’s plenty else to investigate including the Georgian houses of the Royal Crescent, which sits majestically on a hill, as well as plentiful cafes, tearooms and delicatessens, which are usually chock-ablock in the summer. This year they are blissfully quiet.
TOP ATTRACTION: River tours along the Avon restart today, from £8 at riveradventures.co.uk.
WHERE TO STAY: B&B doubles at Broad Street Townhouse from £85 (butcombe. com/broad-street-townhouse-bath).
QUIET IN LONDON
WITH 30 million annual visitors, London is one of the world’s great tourist destinations — but now all is quiet. Wander along the Thames to Big Ben and take in the shops on Oxford Street without the usual summer argie-bargie.
There’s Mediterranean-style outdoor dining in the newly closed-off streets of Soho. And seeing Buckingham Palace or St Paul’s Cathedral has never been easier. The Tube is even pleasantly calm.
But be warned, the British Museum and London Eye remain closed, and competition for tickets for the National Gallery and V&A is fierce.
TOP ATTRACTION: The Tower of London’s outdoor areas as well as the Crown Jewels displays and the White Tower have re-opened; adults £25, children £12.50 (hrp. org.uk).
WHERE TO STAY: B&B doubles at the Hilton Hyde Park from £103 (hilton.com).
HOT IN CHESTER
FOUNDED in AD79, Chester is home to the most complete medieval walls in England. The River Dee runs through the city and streets are lined with fine Victorian buildings.
There is a strong Roman connection — and history tours, including a visit to the Roman Garden, recently resumed.
Chester Zoo has also re-opened with social distancing (online booking required).
It’s easier than ever to get around the shops on the medieval Rows, while Storyhouse Theatre has films, but not live performances.
TOP ATTRACTION: The 355 ft long and 127ft high cathedral, which began life as a Benedictine abbey in 1093.
WHERE TO STAY: B&B doubles at the Crowne Plaza Chester from £97 (ihg.com).
NORTHERN SUMMER
AMONG the northern industrial cities of Newcastle, Middlesbrough, Sunderland and Hartlepool is small, peaceful Durham, famous for its magnificent cathedral overlooking the River Wear.
There are also fine views of its 11th-century castle, designated a unesco World Heritage Site in 1986 (along with the cathedral). Sadly, both are closed for tours, but you can still wander their grounds and marvel at their sheer splendour.
Much in the city has, however, re-opened, including the ten-hectare Botanic Gardens and the Oriental Museum, plus many pubs and restaurants.
TOP ATTRACTION: Beamish, the Living Museum of the North, is 20 minutes away — 350 acres dedicated to recounting the history of the North-East.
Entry is free. Book online (beamish. org.uk).
WHERE TO STAY: B&B doubles at the Hotel Indigo from £99 (ihg.com).
WINNING WINCHESTER
WINCHESTER has one of the largest cathedrals in Europe (open once again after lockdown), plus 600-year-old Winchester College, Peninsula Square Gardens and a castle containing Arthur’s Round Table, which is also open.
Yet this quaint city has many less traditional attractions. For example, Kyoto Kitchen is a firstrate Japanese restaurant serving wasabi farmed locally.
Or, for a relaxing evening, head to the re-opened Everyman Theatre, where seating is on socially-distanced sofas.
Winchester Council has signed up to Visit England’s ‘Good to Go’ stamp scheme to reassure visitors and get crowds back — but it’s lovely and quiet right now.
TOP ATTRACTION: A 15-minute drive away in the South Downs National Park, Hinton Ampner is a superb country house and gardens; adults £8, children £4 (nationaltrust. org.uk).
WHERE TO STAY: B&B doubles at Hotel du Vin from £138 (hotel duvin.com).
CROWD-FREE CARDIFF
CARDIFF has released a phased Safe City plan to re-open as coronavirus lockdown measures continue to lift. And as the Welsh approach has been stricter than England’s, the city streets are especially quiet.
Cardiff Castle has re-opened and St Fagans National Museum, where you can learn about the history of Wales, will open on August 4.
Take a stroll along Cardiff Bay Barrage for the best views of the Severn Estuary or a day trip to Flat Holm Island.
TOP ATTRACTION: Head to Mermaid Quay to enjoy the Cardiff waterfront and a selection of restaurants (mermaidquay.co.uk).
WHERE TO STAY: B&B doubles at Lincoln House Hotel from £75 (lincolnhotel.co.uk).
‘By seeing London, I have seen as much of life as the world can show’
SAMUEL JOHNSON