AN INSPECTOR CALLS

He pays his way... and tells it like it is

THE Daylesford juggernaut trundles on — or, rather, continues its seamless colonisation of the Cotswolds.

There are now four swished-up pubs with rooms, all a short distance from the cathedral that is Daylesford Organic (once a simple farm shop, now a sprawling retail emporium, with spa, restaurants, garden centre et al), to where worshippers flock in such huge numbers that the overflow car park was overflowing on our visit.

Lord and Lady Bamford — whose net wealth is estimated to be nearly £4.5 billion thanks to the successful JCB family business — have created a formidable brand and it’s easy to mock it.

But I can feel my cynicism dispersing on walking into The Bell in Charlbury, the latest Daylesford transformation project and one which, frankly, is a triumph.

It helps, of course, that this is a gorgeous 17th century building and no bad thing that the Bamfords have a few bob in the kitty, but, even so, we all know that money and taste don’t necessarily go together.

Every nook and cranny works perfectly.

There are at least three crackling open fires; the wood panelling and artwork (including a wall of pressed flowers and herbs) have a fabulous sense of belonging; the staff are all open, unaffected, friendly.

No music, no intrusive signage, no fuss. A glass half full sort of place. Grown up and, somehow, self-effacing.

Four of the 12 rooms are above The Barn (a space for private dinners and parties). Ours is called Hawthorn and is described as a ‘cosy room’ but there’s plenty of space and it has a big free-standing tub in the bathroom.

We take an age perusing the menu because a plate of everything would be nice. My smoked salmon starter — a thick fillet rather than wafer-thin slices — is superb and the venison and beef blade suet pie tastes like the Highlands.

Breakfast is just as convivial, but when we ask for crispy bacon, what arrives is undercooked and underwhelming.

Mind you, if the only chink in a hotel’s armour is the bacon, then you have to doff your hat in admiration.

The Bell 1 Church St, Charlbury, Oxfordshire, OX7 3PP 01608 692887, thebellatcharlbury.com Doubles from £153 room only