HOME TO ROOST
Tim and Anne Dover feel right at home at The Roost in Bridge of Earn
From humble beginnings washing dishes in South Queensferry, through spells at The Witchery in Edinburgh, The Peat Inn in Fife, Daniel in New York and with Martin Wishart in Leith – to name but a few – Tim Dover has honed his cookery skills in some of the world’s finest kitchens. ‘I think it’s crucial for any young chef to try to gain as much experience as possible before making it as a head chef or going out on their own,‘ explains Tim. ‘My mindset was always to stay at a place for a couple of years, learn new skills and then move on to the next place in order to better myself.’
Opening The Roost was a lifestyle choice for the Dovers, who wanted their children to grow up in the countryside, and to be somewhere with
access to the best local produce. When they found The Roost in 2008 it was a coffee shop. ‘We didn’t have the money to buy new chairs and carpets, but I could see the potential,‘ Tim says. ‘So it’s been a work in progress and slowly changing over the years. I feel that we’re now pretty close to what we wanted to achieve in the first place.’
And that is modern fine dining using traditional methods. Vegetables and herbs from the raised beds in the garden, along with foraged Alexanders and mushrooms, supplement the fine produce that is sourced locally. ‘Perthshire has the best soft fruit and venison in Scotland,’ says Tim, whose menu changes as often as necessary to ensure the best quality produce is always on offer.
Tim and Anna are content with what they have in Bridge of Earn, but Tim assures me that he’s always looking to up his offering. He has been inspired by the Nordic style of cuisine during a recent trip to Copenhagen. ‘Hence the herring recipe in this feature,’ says Tim, who is now making his own rye and sourdough breads. And a move back to Edinburgh may be on the cards somewhere down the track, when the children are grown and ready to join the family business. ‘They’re already passionate about cooking,’ says Tim. ‘Even Connie, who is nine, keeps the kitchen staff right. She’s been known to tell them that, “Daddy doesn’t do it like that”.’
‘The menu changes as often as necessary to ensure the best quality food is always on offer’