Scottish Field

LOST AND FOUND

The resurrecti­on of whisky from some of Scotland’s defunct distilleri­es

-

Over the last century over a hundred whisky distilleri­es – almost half of all distilleri­es that have ever existed in Scotland – have been closed or demolished. Global economic downturns, over production, world wars and prohibitio­n have all played their part, leaving the buildings and original walls of long defunct distilleri­es to dot the landscape, like skeletons of the nation’s whisky past. For most, their whiskies are long gone, the last bottles drunk decades ago. Tragically, the names and histories of oncethrivi­ng distilleri­es are also in danger of being lost forever. Or at least they were until the Lost Distillery Company entered the equation.

Establishe­d in 2013, the Lost Distillery Company brings the stories and histories of these distillery sites back to life. Using archive research they breathe new life into the histories of closed distilleri­es, and ultimately create modern expression­s of long lost whiskies.

They don’t own any ancient casks or have any samples of these long lost distilleri­es, and they don’t have any secret recipes or old dusty tasting notes. Nor do they have any plans to reopen defunct distilleri­es. But what they do have is an impressive archival team who have painstakin­gly researched these lost distilleri­es to help create a modern resurrecti­on of these whiskies in the form of blended malts.

Their archiving team is headed up by Professor Michael Moss from Glasgow University and looks at ten key components that would have influenced the original character of these lost whiskies. Once they have establishe­d these their blending team then looks to recreate a modern interpreta­tion of these components. The ten key components are: Era: The date of the last distillati­on can give an indicator of the type of distillery equipment that would’ve been used. Locality: Neighbouri­ng distilleri­es may have shared similar sources of water, barley and yeast. Water: Was the water soft or hard? What was the mineral content? Barley: Was the barley peated? If so, what was the phenolic content? What strain of barley was used? Yeast: What type of yeast was used? Peat: How much peat was used if the malted barley was peated? Was it local peat? Mash tun: What was the mash tun made of? Was it open or closed? How was the temperatur­e controlled? Washback: Douglas Fir washbacks were the norm in those days. Still: The shape and size would have a big influence on the spirit. Wood: What type of cask was used? What had been in the cask before?

Over a century ago whisky would not have been chill-filtered or have had added caramel colouring, so nor do the Lost Distillery Company whiskies. At present the Lost Distillery Company have successful­ly resurrecte­d six different ‘lost whiskies’ – Strathden (Fife), Auchenagie (Perthshire), Gerston (Caithness), Jericho (Aberdeensh­ire), Lossit (Islay) and Towiemore (Dufftown, Speyside).

They are researchin­g several other distillery histories and sites, with each taking over six months to fully explore before a new expression can be blended. The label of each bottle gives details about the type of casks used, the distillery and reason it closed, tasting notes and whisky characteri­stics based on the archive research.

The Lost Distillery Company are bringing whisky drinkers as close as possible to sampling ‘lost’ whiskies as they once tasted. It is a story as fascinatin­g as it is heartwarmi­ng.

‘Tragically, the names and histories of once-thriving distilleri­es are in danger of being lost forever’

 ??  ?? Below: Each distillery is thoroughly researched to create modern revivals of lost whiskies.
Below: Each distillery is thoroughly researched to create modern revivals of lost whiskies.
 ?? WORDS BLAIR BOWMAN ??
WORDS BLAIR BOWMAN

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom