the great escape
Tom Wallace of The Mountains And The People project says that Argyll and Loch Lomond were once a retreat for jaded Glaswegians – and still are
W hen workers managed to get time away from Glasgow’s shipyards and factories during the Industrial Revolution, it was to the Arrochar Alps that they headed. This small range of mountains offers some of the best walking and climbing in the Argyll and Loch Lomond area. But in the early 20th century, it was a different prospect altogether. Sold to them as a way to cope with the hardships of living in
smog-filled Glasgow, many were introduced to the peaks on their doorstep for the first time. There were no paths or signposts in those days, and few places to shelter. Today it is widely considered that the arrival of these workers, who dreamt of scaling the ridges above Arrochar, gave rise to mountaineering in Scotland.
Argyll and Loch Lomond is an exceptional part of the country and, for me, the Arrochar Alps are its best selling point. Clustered around the head of Loch Long, these mountains include the famous Cobbler, one of the nation’s most iconic hills. It may not be a Munro, but it’s a good mountain walk. I often do variations of the usual route, sometimes walking only part of the way, or at times tying in the Munros of Ben Narnain and Ben Ime. Last year, with the good weather, nearly 60,000
people climbed the Cobbler. It’s a huge asset for Scotland and free to access. Heavy footfall is one of the reasons that The Mountains and The People project is investing in path repairs here, both through volunteers and trainees, as well as contractors. The work is part of a five-year project led by the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland with the aim of involving the people of Scotland in the enhancement and protection of the mountains within our National Parks. So that’s the conservation side of things. I manage the hearts and minds side of it. We want to get folk out enjoying the paths while, at the same time, recognising the environmental impact that walking can have on the landscape. We want to give them the opportunity to help care for the mountains themselves. My first job was as an outdoor instructor at the foot of the Arrochar Alps. I learned how to teach hillwalking, kayaking and climbing, so walking on the Cobbler became a daily job for me. In the last two years I’ve found myself returning to the paths I trained on 20 years ago. I feel I’ve had a chance to give back to the mountains a little.
I get a huge sense of satisfaction seeing people enjoy what others take for granted. I’ve done a lot of work with children from deprived backgrounds around Glasgow who haven’t had the chance to experience much of the area’s wilderness. Seeing their eyes widen as they gaze at the mountains above, or watch porpoises frolicking in Loch Long, is what makes it all worthwhile. You forget how much light pollution affects the city. The kids thought they’d seen stars before, but it was only here they realised there are billions more in the night sky than they ever imagined.
There are also now opportunities on offer for adults who haven’t spent much time on the hills to get involved and begin to take advantage of what we are lucky enough to have right on our doorstep. The Mountains and The People has recently partnered with Ramblers
‘We want to get folk out enjoying the paths while at the same time recognising the environmental impact that walking can have’
Scotland to offer three to five-mile walks around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs as well as in the Cairngorms National Park. These are aimed at those looking for a gentle introduction to hillwalking with planned routes over easy terrain and friendly leaders on hand to act as guides. In my opinion, there is no better place in which to get started.
The combination of mountains and lochs is what makes the region so special. The Argyll peninsula is peopled with small island communities, quite cut off from the rest of the world. There’s only one road in and out. The only other option is the ferry from Gourock to Dunoon so they’re isolated, close-knit places. They offer a wealth of outdoor opportunities, from a quiet walk along the shore to an ambitious mountain hike, or a day spent sailing on the lochs.
As well as the Arrochar Alps, there’s the sea and shore of Loch Long and the freshwater and woodland of Loch Lomond.
Conic Hill is a great walk starting in Drymen, where I live, or Balmaha if you prefer. It offers some of the best views of Loch Lomond, as well as home-made ice-cream at the bottom. It’s part of the West Highland Way which draws thousands of visitors annually.
Given the landscape, it’s probably unsurprising we have such a great bounty of local food and drink in Argyll and Loch Lomond. One of my favourite places is the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar & Restaurant, nestled at the point where the mountains meet the water of the loch. It’s renowned for exceptional seafood. Then there’s the Loch Fyne Brewery, another amazing place. They have been brewing outstanding craft beers for many years.
If you find yourself on the Cowal Peninsula, there’s a wonderful walk at Puck’s Glen. This walkway, formalised in Victorian times, has a magical feel and at times it feels like you’re walking through a rainforest. There is also a longer walk in the area which takes in some great viewpoints along the way. In my mind, it’s one of the best kept secrets in Argyll.
If you’re prepared to travel a little bit further, western Argyll is a treasure trove of things to do. With a world class distillery, sea-life sanctuary as well as plenty of accommodation and dining options, the town of Oban is a great base for shorter day walks. Its busy ferry terminal makes it the perfect gateway to the islands.
‘The kids thought they’d seen stars before, but it was only here they realised there are billions more in the night sky than they ever imagined’