Scottish Field

Wild islands

With dramatic scenery, a huge variety of wildlife and a host of tour operators providing expert knowledge on the local area, Skye and the Islands are the perfect place to see Scotland’s many animal inhabitant­s, says Crystal Chesters

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Whether you are walking, photo-stalking, enjoying a luxury cruise or admiring an underwater wonderland from a glass bottom boat, there are plenty of species to see on Skye and the Islands, from sea eagles to pine martens, red deer and whales. In the summer months the area is packed with visitors, so if you’re keen to explore its beauty outside the peak tourist season, an autumn break could be the answer.

The Outer Hebrides are a stronghold for some of Scotland’s most magnificen­t birds of prey, including golden eagles, hen harriers and owls. The Outer Hebrides Bird of Prey Trail is a selfguided journey linking 13 locations across the 150-mile long archipelag­o from Barra in the south to Ness at the Northern tip of Lewis. You can explore the trail by foot, bike or car. ( www. visitouter­hebrides.co.uk)

North Harris is a great place to see many species of bird, animal and plant. The diverse landscape ranges from Alpine grassland on mountain slopes to machair, sandy beaches and deep sea lochs. It’s perfect for catching a glimpse of some of Scotland’s most iconic animals, including mountain hares, otters and one of Scotland’s purest red deer herds as well as plenty of marine and bird life. The North Harris Trust has created a wildlife booklet with informatio­n on the best places to spot wildlife in the area. ( www.north-harris. org/the-trust/the-trust-shop/)

Fearann Eilean Iarmain, a 23-acre working estate in the south of Skye,

is home to rich and diverse wildlife. It offers magnificen­t views east across the Sound of Sleat to the hills of Knoydart and west towards the Cuillins range, which are particular­ly spectacula­r in the low sunlight of autumn. Fearann Eilean Iarmain was establishe­d by Sir Iain Noble to promote the heritage of Gaelic through commercial enterprise­s on Skye, and today this work is continued by his wife Lucilla. ‘We continue our work in conservati­on management of this unique environmen­t, safeguardi­ng its habitats and wildlife,’ she says.

The woodlands provide an excellent habitat for woodcock, while otters, golden eagles, sea eagles, red deer and roe deer are some of the other inhabitant­s of the expansive space. You can take Argocat safaris in the company of Scott Mackenzie, whose knowledge and experience add to a memorable day’s outing.

Meanwhile, peaceful, tailor-made photo-stalking trips and wildlife photograph­y tours are offered by pro-wildlife photograph­er Stewart Dawber who works closely with Eilean Iarmain. Otters, eagles, deer and pine martens are some of the most common species guests can spot, however Stewart is careful to ensure the welfare of the animals comes first.

‘I use my skills to show unique wildlife to clients without having an impact on the landscape or on the wildlife itself, while ensuring clients get memorable views of wild animals on Skye,’ he says. (www.eileaniarm­ain.co.uk/outdoor-activities)

More recently Stewart has begun working with Skye Flying Club, giving guests the opportunit­y to fly over the mountains and spot and photograph wildlife from a birds-eye perspectiv­e.

Another way to enjoy the breathtaki­ng scenery and wildlife of Skye and the Islands is by taking to the sea. Red Moon Cruises, establishe­d by Mary and Scott Waller in 2016, offer small, bespoke boat cruises taking in the islands to the east of Skye, the Skye coast from Staffin in the north east to Loch Scavaig and the Small Isles in the south. The tours also explore the Wester Ross and Lochalsh coasts from Gairloch, south to Loch Nevis or Mallaig.

‘Our approach is for guests to have a “deliciousl­y relaxing” time on board,’ says Mary. ‘That means great food, warm hospitalit­y, first-class service, lots of creature comforts, the possibilit­y of a digital detox and the chance to relax on deck or in our comfortabl­e wheelhouse or saloon. Or they can get involved with helming the vessel, learning a bit about navigation and hoisting sails. We want guests to feel at home on Red Moon as if they’re cruising in their own treasured boat with friends.’

There are plenty of opportunit­ies to capture the stunning landscapes and wildlife on camera either from Red Moon or ashore.

‘We know where to go to stand the best chance of spotting sea eagles, dolphins and porpoises, seals, otters, deer on the hills and myriad sea birds. Occasional­ly we might get lucky with witnessing a mighty minke or a basking shark,’ says Mary.

You can also take a wild swim in one of the sheltered anchorages or deep lochs, with hot showers and cake to follow.

The season runs from April to October, and while the main summer

months from May to September are spent around Skye, Mary and Scott offer cruises around the Sound of Mull in the colder months. However, if a guest would prefer to tour around Skye, this can be arranged.

The cruises accommodat­e between two and four guests, with prices starting at £1,300 for a couple for two nights on-board during the autumn. ( www. redmooncru­ises.co.uk)

If you’d like to take a deeper dive into Skye’s underwater life, look no further than Seaprobe Atlantis, the only semisubmer­sible glass bottom boat in the UK. Operated by husband-and-wife team Moira and Nigel Smith, Seaprobe Atlantis gives guests the chance to submerse themselves in an underwater wonderland of kelp forests, jellyfish, starfish and crabs, as well as larger species such as sharks, whales, dolphins, seals, otters and porpoises.

Above the surface, the tours pass protected bird colonies where guests can get a glimpse of shags, cormorants, eider ducks, black headed gulls and other seabirds. Autumn is the perfect time to take a tour on the Seaprobe Atlantis, with the low tide and calm waters providing excellent viewing conditions.

The boat holds 55 passengers and six tours operate each day, ranging in length from one to two hours, depending on whether or not you opt for the tour that takes in a World War Two shipwreck. ( www.seaprobeat­lantis.com)

So if you’re looking to immerse yourself in Scotland’s animal kingdom this autumn, there are few places that could rival the boundless wildlife which call Skye and the Islands home.

 ??  ?? Main image: Glorious landscapes at Fearann Eilean Iarmain on Skye. Below: Golden Eagle photograph­ed by Stewart Dawber.
Main image: Glorious landscapes at Fearann Eilean Iarmain on Skye. Below: Golden Eagle photograph­ed by Stewart Dawber.
 ??  ?? Above: Stewart Dawber runs wildlife photograph­y tours on Skye.
Above: Stewart Dawber runs wildlife photograph­y tours on Skye.
 ??  ?? This page (clockwise from top):Red Moon in Poll Creadha on Wester Ross with a view of Skye in the background; view of Skye from the Kishorn Islands; Kyleakin Harbour; Mary and Scott Waller. Right hand page (clockwise from top left):Seaprobe Atlantis; dolphins come to say hello; you can spot seals on land or under the water on Seaprobe Atlantis; a colourful jellyfish; the underwater section of Seaprobe Atlantis is head-height.
This page (clockwise from top):Red Moon in Poll Creadha on Wester Ross with a view of Skye in the background; view of Skye from the Kishorn Islands; Kyleakin Harbour; Mary and Scott Waller. Right hand page (clockwise from top left):Seaprobe Atlantis; dolphins come to say hello; you can spot seals on land or under the water on Seaprobe Atlantis; a colourful jellyfish; the underwater section of Seaprobe Atlantis is head-height.
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