Journey back
Delve into our nation’s rich and varied past by spending your break in Aberdeenshire, an area bursting with fascinating tales just waiting to be uncovered, says Stephanie Abbot
Travelling back in time isn’t as difficult as you might think. Across Scotland there are hundreds, if not thousands of historic places just waiting to share the stories of their past with curious visitors. Whether you want to delve into the beginnings of a nation, the bloody battles and political chess games that span the centuries or simply see how the generations before you went about their daily lives, Scotland can take you there.
Last year 300,000 people visited National Trust for Scotland properties in Aberdeenshire alone, but this should come as no surprise as it’s awash with heritage and points of historical interest. ( www.nts.org.uk)
With 263 castles, Aberdeenshire has been duly named ‘Castle Country’ and has more castles per acre than anywhere else in the UK. There are also a number of grand estates where visitors are welcome to snoop around, learn about former residents and perhaps hear a ghost story or two. The perfect way to take in some of the most impressive structures in the area is by completing the Castle Trail, a six-day route that
leads you on a journey of twists and turns through the dark, dramatic and sometimes gruesome history of Aberdeenshire’s magnificent fortresses. The first stop on the map is Dunnottar Castle, a ruined clifftop fortress once visited by Mary, Queen of Scots and captured by William Wallace in 1297. It’s also said that Shakespeare’s Macbeth is loosely based on it. The trail is filled with fairytale castles, grand homes, eerie medieval ruins and even a castle under a curse, making it the perfect way to spend a historically-themed break. ( ebooks.visitscotland.com/ scotlands-castle-trail)
Or why not follow in the footsteps of royalty and embark upon the Victorian Heritage Trail? Queen Victoria fell in love with Scotland and had a particular affinity towards the area that became known as Royal Deeside, even writing down her thoughts, ‘All seemed to breathe freedom and peace’. Her beloved husband Prince Albert subsequently purchased the Balmoral Estate for her in 1852 and it has been the official summer residence of the royal family ever since. Another sign that Aberdeenshire has quite literally been given the royal seal of approval is that the little town of Ballater has more ‘By Appointment’ signs than any other comparable place in the world.
One of the most interesting stops on the Victorian Heritage trail is the Royal Deeside Railway Station. For over 150 years this line was patronised by the royal family and many of their esteemed guests who visited Balmoral Castle during the summer. These included Prime Ministers, the Tzar of Russia and the Persian Royal family.
Visitors can hop aboard the steam train for a spot of cream tea or perhaps
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You can stick your head out of the window and smell the smoke
fulfil a childhood ambition by driving the steam train for themselves. The steam experience offers guests the chance to get in the driver’s car and see exactly what it takes to operate this old-world machinery. Chris Milburn, the operations director at the station and one of the four drivers, said, ‘In just an hour, guests can see what hard work it was with no steering wheel or electronics.’ Drivers can also invite some friends and family to sit in the break car.
To get a literal blast from the past, ‘you can stick your head out of the window and smell the smoke,’ Chris added. Two drivers at a time can take part while supervised by full-time drivers or firemen and anyone feeling up to the challenge can even shovel the coal.
Chris, a retired GP, has always been interested in railways and said the preservation of this line in particular was important because, ‘We’re using the original route and it was a beautiful, scenic line carrying royals all the way up to Ballater before they were taken by coach to Balmoral.’ The importance of the railways to our national history as a whole is significant as Chris explained.
‘They played a large part in the development of villages and towns and industries like fishing and agriculture, employment and of course, social development,’ he said. And for anyone thinking of volunteering, Chris points out that, ‘it’s much less expensive to join a railway than a gym’. ( www.deesiderailway.co.uk)
If you’ve got the time, why not incorporate another trail into your break and check out the Aberdeen Historic Bridges Trail? The journey takes you through 2,800 years of history on a 300-mile circular route, from an Iron Age trail over the Cairn O’ Mount to the Hanoverian Military Roads between Deeside and Donside and along the dramatic North East Coastline. ( www. aberdeenshire.gov.uk/media/21333/historicbridges-trail.pdf)
Or to give yourself a ‘sporting’ chance of fitting more activities into your holiday, on 1 September, the Braemar Gathering, Scotland’s most famous Highland Games is not be missed. Cheer on your favourite team while they battle it out during the Tug o’ War or see the ‘heavies’ toss the Braemar caber in a sport described as the ultimate test of strength. (braemargathering.org)
With a bounty of trails, beautifully preserved castles, estates and much more, stepping back in time has never been so easy. It also means that a trip to Aberdeenshire this autumn is sure to be one for the history books.