Head for the hills
The Cairngorms is the UK’s largest national park, so it’s little surprise that it is home to some of the best walking in the country. Jamie Dey explores all that it has to offer
The Cairngorms is one of the ‘must see’ areas among all of Scotland’s magnificent landscapes. Some of the highest summits in Britain give way in the south to the splendour of Upper Deeside and, in the north, to the gentle, rolling country of Speyside.
While tough mountaineers and snowsports-lovers flock to the region, there really is something for everyone, especially near Aviemore, a key centre for outdoor activity in Scotland.
Few would want to miss Loch Morlich in Glenmore or Loch an Eilein in Rothiemurchus for wonderful strolls through towering pines by tranquil waters, all backed by high mountains. Cairn Gorm itself might seem daunting but it is actually relatively attainable for anyone of reasonable fitness – starting at Coire Cas you can also catch the funicular down, making it ideal for those suffering from a bad back as the jolting of joints on the descent is negated (really, it works).
More gentle strolls are enjoyed on the fringes of the mountains, such as a walk from the Glenmore Visitor Centre (see below) to Ryvoan Bothy, a former crofter’s cottage and now a refuge for hillwalkers. On the other side of the Lairig Ghru, a deep, long chasm splitting the high summits, is Glen Feshie, which offers many woodland walks and, thanks to excellent path rebuilding, a long but rewarding hike up the Munro of Sgòr Gaoith.
Further to the east in Upper Deeside are the wonderful pools and waterfalls of the Linn of Dee. This is a peaceful location to picnic and wander, as is the Linn of Quoich which, like much of this area, was a favourite spot of Queen Victoria’s. From these relaxing corners of rugged countryside, it is possible to begin some extremely arduous hill walks, such as Ben Macdui, Beinn a’ Bhuird and Ben Avon, although others may prefer the more relaxing riverside strolls or lower hills such as Morrone.
Further down the River Dee it is possible to enjoy a walk on parts of the Balmoral Estate near the ‘Big House’, as long as the Queen is not home. The higher reaches of this royal land are accessible all year and lead to Lochnagar, a wonderful mountain immortalised in fiction by Prince Charles and best climbed from Loch Muick to the south. The loch itself is well worth a stroll around, especially just before sun set when the light takes on a magical quality as it bathes the heather-clad hills.
From Ballater there are more walks which will suit those who like an outing to be invigorating but not a life-threatening adventure. A good choice is up Craigendarroch, a short clamber to a viewpoint looking over Deeside to the high mountains beyond.
Going further east still is Burn o’ Vat, a narrow fissure of rock at the Muir of Dinnet National Nature Reserve through which you can creep. Nearby is the Glen Tanar Estate, where many waymarked trails in Scots Pines make for a lovely day, and the more athletic can climb the most easterly Munro, Mount Keen.
On the other side of the Cairngorm mountains the rolling land of Speyside includes Loch Garten, a great place to see ospreys in the summer but also a good place for a walk year round, as is Grantown-on-Spey. Here, the Anagach Woods are home to the capercaillie. To see one, you have to be extraordinarily quiet, early in the day and lucky.
As you progress down Speyside the presence of whisky can’t be ignored. The Cromdale Hills are quieter than their Cairngorm neighbours and make for good walking before enjoying the water of life. Another good aim is Ben Rinnes (see below), which dominates the landscape towards the centre of whisky production.
Whether you want a dram or not, this part of Scotland cannot fail to deliver a good walk to enjoy for all ages and abilities, and at all times of the year.
‘Some of the highest summits in Britain give way to the splendour of Upper Deeside and the gentle rolling country of Speyside’