HOW DO YOU LIKE THEM APPLES?
Exploring Scotland's orchards, past and present
The apple orchard is a magical place. Visit any ruined castle or stately home and you will find the most beautiful and peaceful spot is not beneath the battlements, but somewhere among the apple trees. In Scotland orchards were planted around monasteries and castles from Medieval times. Every farm would have an apple orchard to ensure both fruit and cider for the workers. It is estimated there were hundreds of acres of orchards supplying the local population. Areas such as the Clyde Valley and Carse of Gowrie were particularly famous for production of apples and favourite varieties emerged such as Bloody Ploughman and Cambusnethan Pippin.
However, in the 20th Century, the coming of the steam engine meant that Scottish apples were outshone by the bigger, juicier varieties chugging in from England, France and America. Scottish orchards, which were vulnerable to a more changeable climate, could not compete and thousands of trees were grubbed up. With the advance of the supermarkets in the 1970s, the supply of apples extended to New Zealand and fresh apples all year round. Today just three varieties make up most of the apples we eat: Gala, Braeburn and Cox. And almost two thirds are imported.
But Scottish apples were not forgotten. Those famous varieties lived on in pockets, reminding us that Scottish apples may not be as big and juicy as a New Zealand Gala but they often have a more intense, complex flavour.
In the 1990s a revolution began in England against the ‘dumbing down’ of apples. Groups such as Common Ground, set up by the writer Roger Deakin, called for a halt on grubbing up historic apple orchards before precious varieties were lost forever. Apple Day was established to encourage people to visit orchards on 21 October each year. The idea was to educate people about the 2,000 plus varieties of apples in the UK and encourage them to buy juice and plant trees.
‘Today just three varieties make up most of the apples we eat ’
The revival of West Country cider and the fashion for English apples in cooking and restaurants was so successful that it is easy to forget there was also a campaign in Scotland to save the 40 named varieties bred and raised north of the border, as well as many more varieties so far unnamed or forgotten.
Quietly and slowly, in communities around Scotland, there has also been a successful effort to protect our surviving orchards and plant new trees. Scottish Orchards, who have been co-ordinating efforts with charities and community groups, estimate 25,000 trees were planted over the last 10 to 15 years in schools, community orchards, parks, allotments and gardens.
John Hancox, known as ‘apple John’, who helped set up Scottish Orchards, says the real number may be much higher as many community groups and schools are working independently.
‘The true figure is maybe 100,000,’ he says. ‘Slowly we are replanting and creating a fruitful Scotland.’
For extinct varieties, such as Gogar Pippin and Red Leadington, it is already too late. But many
‘Slowly we are replanting and creating a fruitful Scotland’
Scottish varieties, such as Scotch Dumpling and James Grieve, are enjoying a revival. Orchards are also key habitats for wildlife such as woodpeckers, hedgehogs, bees and lichens.
At the same time enthusiasm has been growing for Scottish cider. Peter Stuart, the founder of Thistly Cross Cider, noticed the revival in cider down south and decided to try the same in Scotland. In the first year of production in 2008 he sold 10,000 litres, ten years on he sells one million litres. He attributes the popularity of Scottish cider to a growing awareness of the origins of our food. Consumers are interested in food with local heritage, history and environmental benefits . It also tastes good.
Sadly just 10% of Thistly Cross is from Scottish apples, since the volume to meet demand simply does not exist. But the East Lothian-based company offer a juicing service for individuals so they can exchange a glut of apples for juice or cider. With a bumper year on the horizon they will be busy this autumn.
Smeaton Gardens in East Lothian will be selling some of the juice from Worcester Pearmain and Peasgood Nonsuch in the café. Mary Fawdry of Newton Walled Garden will also be sending her harvest to Thistly Cross from varieties including Irish Peach and Newton Wonder.
If you would like to try Scottish varieties such as the Golden Pippin, the Beauty of Moray or the Scotch Pippin then it is possible to buy apples and juice at farm shops or farmers markets, via box schemes or in independent shops. Apple Day across Scotland on the weekend of 21 October is an opportunity to find out more about varieties available in your area and where to buy them, or how to grow an old variety in your own back garden. As well as Scottish varieties many of the English varieties are worth tasting. Apples are often chosen because they store well, so varieties such as Ashmead’s Kernel and Egremont Russet should last all the way through into the next spring.
Certain supermarkets have started taking a limited amount of British varieties but it is only during the apple season at the end of the year and will never be a significant proportion of the market. No matter how satisfying it is to bite into a Discovery in August or a Blenheim Orange in November, most of us will continue to buy Golden Delicious for the rest of the year.
Personally, I think it is too late to replace supermarket apples with old fashioned varieties. Scotland already has a mountain to climb in persuading people to eat more fruit and vegetables, before trying to dictate the varieties of apples we eat. But supporting smaller growers and even planting your own trees is still important because it is keeping our precious orchards alive.