SOUTHERN STROLLS
From glorious coastline to gentle farmland that slides into rolling hills and craggy peaks, there is a wealth of wonderful wanderings and a healthy dose of history to be discovered in Ayrshire and Arran, says Nick Drainey
Nick Drainey explores Ayrshire and Arran on foot
Ayrshire and Arran are a brilliant mix of mountains, rolling hills, bucolic farmland, rugged coast and beach. Here, there is the chance to test your hiking strength and skill to the highest degree. Or, enjoy a gentle stroll which will energise the senses just as much – albeit with less strain on the legs and lungs.
Off the coast, with a jagged skyline which catches the eye from the mainland, is Arran; an island that has to be on everyone’s list of must-see places in Scotland. The cliché says it is Scotland in miniature but it is not a substitute for the rest of the country, it is so good it could be said to be another hackneyed phrase; the jewel in the crown.
In the summer months this is a place of many tourists but it is great to visit at any time of the year. A resident red deer population on the island adds to the majesty of Goat Fell, the highest point which is most easily climbed from Brodick, where the ferry arrives from Ardrossan.
However, the whole of the island is wonderfully set up for walking with good waymarked routes and signposts. To the north is Lochranza and a lovely coastal stroll to Fairy Dell – yes, the winged creatures are said to live around here.
Further round the coast is a wonderful stretch of beach at Pirnmill and to the south is a popular spot for a historical walk. Blackwaterfoot has a good stretch of rugged coast to explore although the highlight for most is the King’s Cave, said to have been where Robert the Bruce had his famous encounter with a spider.
On the other side of Arran is Lamlash where you can catch a ferry to the Holy Isle, now owned by the Samye Ling Buddhist Community, which is a superb place to wander and look for seabirds.
Back on the mainland, Largs has always been a popular spot for holiday makers and day trippers (remember to visit Nardinis ice cream parlour). In actual fact, it was the Vikings who really put the place on the map but nowadays there is some good walking which attracts folk, not least up Castle Hill and along Gogo Glen. Off Largs is the island of Great Cumbrae, not as dramatic as Arran but definitely packed with lots of wonderful, old world charm, especially at Millport where you can walk past Crocodile Rock (it is painted as such) to Farland Point.
It is hard to think of Ayrshire without contemplating Robert Burns. The Bard was born here and certainly left his mark in Alloway. The town oozes his writings and it is a good idea to follow a literary trail which takes in the Auld Kirk and Brig o’ Doon.
The 44-mile River Ayr Way is one of many long distance routes which have sprung up in Scotland in recent years and can often be a good way to spend a short break. They can, of course, be done in sections and one good part of this path is at Sorn where the river enjoys a superb backdrop of rolling countryside and woodland. There is the chance as well to stop off at the brilliant Sorn Inn.
The 100-mile Ayrshire Coastal Path is also growing in popularity and a good section to try is between Lendalfoot and
“Arran is an island that has to be on everyone’s must-see list
Girvan, where the coast is a mix of rocks and beach, with the granite plug of Ailsa Craig off the coast.
Above Girvan is Byne Hill, which has an even better view of Ailsa Craig. You can also go out to the big lump of rock by boat and make a strenuous walk up to the top. It is probably best, however, to admire it from afar or to try a bit of curling as the rock provides the stones for this most Scottish of winter games.
Culzean Castle is a star attraction for visitors to Ayrshire and its sumptuous Robert Adam design makes it a picture postcard spot. The surrounding country park is good to stroll through while taking in coastal views, meaning you can enjoy it year round, even when the building is closed to visitors.
Inland there is some wonderful countryside to explore. Loch Doon with its castle is a popular spot, as is the Burn Anne walk from Galston in the Irvine Valley. Darvel is another destination with a great walk along an old railway line and up Loudon Hill – the first climb of which is almost a rite of passage for locals. The village of Barr is the start for a fine walk into forest – the Changue Plantation – with a well-marked trail to follow.
If a wooded glen with beautiful waterfalls is your thing then Lady Hunter Blair’s walk in Straiton is for you. Lose yourself in a place that feels like it has been forgotten only for you to rediscover it. In many ways it sums up what Ayrshire is about – a place where extreme mindfulness could easily be enjoyed.