ISLAND LIFE
Boasting some of the country’s oldest archaeological sites, a uniquely rich cultural heritage and breathtaking seascapes, exploring Shetland and Orkney on foot could just be the perfect family getaway, says Nick Drainey
An area rich in archaeological and cultural heritage, Shetland and Orkney are a paradise for walkers
Orkney is blessed with such an array of beaches it seems you could lose yourself on a different one each day of the year. On a family trip there last summer I planned to visit various locations, from the Old Man of Hoy to sites which boast more Neolithic history than the National Museum of Scotland; from the cafes of Kirkwall to far flung islands.
However, as is the wonderful way with children, we found a great beach on day one. The weather was good on day two so we returned. A bit of Viking and early Scots history was squeezed in when the weather was a bit misty, but when the sun came out it was a case of ‘which of the many sandy bays should we explore?’ The one we had already been to, of course.
And so the holiday continued until we sailed past the fantastic sea stack which is the Old Man and the youngest agreed it would be good to go into the hills behind it ‘when we come back – but we have to go that beach again’.
‘That beach’ was the beautiful Bay of Skaill and I can confirm it is good for stone stacking, sand castles, long strolls up on to headlands, body boarding, swimming and having a dog urinate on your discarded shirt when you’ve gone in for a dip (a highlight for the children but best not dwelt upon).
But it really is just one gem among many on Orkney and when you add in Shetland there is just so much scenery to enjoy that any doubts about filling your time on these northern outposts will be well and truly squashed.
Orkney’s Mainland is where most people think of when they are planning a visit but there are more than 70 islands here, not all inhabited but most definitely with a windswept beauty, whether that be hills or coast.
Hoy is known for the aforementioned sea stack and a great viewpoint of it is only a stroll of an hour or so from Rackwick. But there is also a whole island of rugged high hills to explore with views extending over the rest of Orkney and back to the mainland, with the mountains of Sutherland to the west.
If it is beaches you want, the large island of Sanday is hard to beat – as the name implies there are miles of golden strands to explore on this far flung outpost. It is also hard to overlook North Ronaldsay when you are at the top of the archipelago and a walk around its coast is accompanied all the way by a stone wall which was built to ensure the island’s famous sheep stayed on the beach, chomping seaweed.
Back on the mainland the walks above and around Bay of Skaill are good, as is a wander from the Neolithic Ring of Brodgar down to the Standing Stones of Stenness, passing a major archaeological dig on the way. For an exciting challenge head north to the Brough of Birsay, which is only reached at low tide by a causeway, so make sure you don’t get trapped by the incoming waves.
Still with the Neolithic but with a less polished visitor centre and a more ‘real’ feel is the Tomb of the Eagles, on a farmer’s land on South Ronaldsay. Just to reach it from the mainland you have to pass over the Churchill Barriers – built in the Second World War to protect the fleet anchored in Scapa Flow and now used as causeways between islands.
Then, after an introduction by the family of the farmer who unearthed a Neolithic chambered tomb in the 1970s, you are free to stroll along the coast to this ancient burial place. You can also go inside by means of a wheeled trolley you pull by rope through the narrow entrance.
The Shetland Isles also have an ancient heritage to be proud of and nowhere is this more evident than at the Iron Age broch on the island of Mousa, which is central to an RSPB reserve and a good place for a stroll.
In this part of Shetland you simply have to visit St Ninian’s Isle, reached by a strip of sand called a tombolo. It is home to the remains of an old chapel but the sea views and great spot for a picnic make it a highlight of any trip.
Right at the top of Shetland is Unst, Britain’s most northerly inhabited island – just this is enough for any who like the idea of escapism but at the very top is the Hermaness National Nature Reserve. A walk here takes you past the bonxies – skuas which can divebomb if you stray too close to their nests – to cliffs which are home to many puffins. Sitting here you can gaze to Muckle Flugga and Out Stack, the most northern bits of rock we call home, although no-one lives there.
Between Shetland and Orkney is Fair Isle, beloved of those who admire the knitting patterns invented here and also of bird lovers. One of the most important bird observatories in Europe was based here until it unfortunately burned down in 2019. It won’t be rebuilt until next year but that does not mean birdwatching has stopped, and neither has the chance to enjoy a fantastic wander around one of the most remote of remote islands.