TEN OF THE BEST
During the lockdown, Nick Drainey kept his spirits high by dreaming of the hills he would revisit when the great outdoors were accessible once again. Here’s the keen walker’s hitlist of his top ten days out
The necessary restrictions imposed because of coronavirus may have led many to explore their immediate surroundings, and that in itself is no bad thing – I know I was surprised and pleased to discover a babbling burn hidden up behind my local golf course. Many, however, yearn for a bit of escapism even in our usual day-today lives, so when we are not allowed to travel and roam free where we please that desire burns ever stronger. Amid any gloom there should always be some perspective – the lockdown was always going to end and I knew that when that happened the joys of Scotland’s landscapes would be waiting for us, to be appreciated all the more. So here are my ten favourite walks, the ones whose memory sustained me throughout the lockdown. And if there is one other thing I missed almost as much as a good walk in the wilds it’s a decent country pub, so there are a few of them mentioned as well.
1. BALNAKEIL AND FARAID HEAD, SUTHERLAND
Balnakeil lies across from Cape Wrath and stunning is something of an understatement. You start by the ruins of a 17th century church and the imposing Balnakeil House but the drama is really in front of you with one of the most glorious beaches in the world (and yes, I do mean the entire world). The white sands and high dunes are there to be enjoyed either by strolling, having a picnic or taking a dip in the turquoise waters (a wetsuit may be a good idea, you are quite a long way from the equator). Beyond there are little cliffs and a turfed headland with ocean views which can include whales, dolphins and seals. Note that at certain times of the year military exercises take place at Cape Wrath with Faraid Head used as the headquarters for practice bombing. You won’t get hit but it can be noisy.
4½ miles, 2 hours.
2. STAC POLLAIDH, ASSYNT
Even though it is only 2,008 feet high, this is one of Scotland’s iconic mountains – a lone summit among desolate wilderness. At first sight the route up seems impossible to anyone but experienced mountaineers. However, the mountain is deceptive in that a normal level of fitness will allow anyone to get in among the cliffs at the top. The route is also simple and well defined, thanks to path work by Scottish Natural Heritage. But as much as Stac Pollaidh looks like a real mountain, it is the views from it which also captivate visitors – they include the mountains of Assynt with the ‘sugarloaf’ of Suilven to the north and the Summer Isles to the south-west while out to sea are the Western Isles. A visit to the Summer Isles Hotel afterwards will round off a brilliant day.
2 miles, 3 hours.
3. BRUACH NA FRITHE, SKYE
The Cuillin ridge up close is a formidable prospect and this walk is by far the hardest of the ten in this list. However, Bruach na Frithe from Sligachan takes you up amid the pinnacles and buttresses, and while there is a short way along the ridge there is no need for a rope. Giddying drops are not far away but you don’t need to cling on to rock to avoid them. Once up high the view is unforgettable – jagged rock abounds, often accompanied by fearsome names such as the Basteir Tooth. Although strenuous, this Munro can be completed by any fit and healthy walker and afterwards there will always be the chance to brag about the day you ventured onto the Black Cuillin. Just don’t try that in the hospitable Sligachan Inn below – there are folk in there who go along the whole ridge in a day.
8½ miles, 8 hours.
5. PAP OF GLENCOE
When it comes to mountains and picture postcard scenery, Glencoe has an abundance. Some of the peaks and ridges were used as training grounds for the early Everest climbers but there are walks for mere mortals as well. Although the conical summit of the Pap of Glencoe is not up to Munro height it is a first class mountain. It is steep to reach – you will need to take a few breathers – but the views as you do so are superb. These encompass the nearby Aonach Eagach ridge and the huge buttresses of Bidean nam Bian across Glencoe, to the ranges surrounding Ben Nevis and out over Loch Leven to Loch Linnhe. The renowned Clachaig Inn waits at the bottom; a hostelry beloved of climbers where tales of derring do and folk music mix well with a dram or two.
5 miles, 4½ hours.
6. GLEN TANAR, DEESIDE (WITH EXTENSION UP MT KEEN)
The pinewoods of Glen Tanar are home to the capercaillie and crossbill. Mixed woodland also abounds and is filled with birdsong. The area is blessed with a number of waymarked routes which lead you round the estate, passing the old St Lesmo’s Chapel, which was once the heart of a community which declined at the start of the 19th century when passing trade from drovers began to dwindle, before passing the Knockie Viewpoint and the Water of Tanar. Try the longest ‘Old Pines’ route for the full experience. The really fit can extend the walk to the top of the most easterly Munro, Mount Keen, which is a full day’s excursion but a wonderfully long hike of 17 miles which is sure to clear the head. A retreat to Aboyne and the Boat Inn is to be recommended.
5 miles, 2½ hours.
7. BEN VRACKIE, NEAR PITLOCHRY
One of the best hills, above one of the best pubs in Scotland. Not a Munro but a proper, pointy mountain, Ben Vrackie dominates Pitlochry and offers a great leg stretch in Highland Perthshire. Once you have walked a little way up the Moulin Burn the south face comes into view, looming above like an Alpine peak. Don’t be daunted, there is a path all the way to the summit from where you can gaze over mountains from Schiehallion to the south west, Lochaber in the far distance to the west and the Grampians to the north. Some friends from down south once asked for an introduction to the mountains of Scotland and I took them here. Afterwards, their day became even more memorable as it turned into evening in the cosy inn at the Moulin Hotel near the starting point of this walk.
6 miles, 5 hours.
8. CRAIL TO KINGSBARNS, FIFE
The beaches and rocky bays of the East Neuk of Fife are idyllic and a good long stroll along them is one of the best ways to spend a day outdoors. Beginning in the quaint Crail harbour the senses are soon brought to life with the coastal views. This is also a place for golf and hallowed fairways are passed. Rather incongruously among the tees, greens and fairways is a cave where Constantine I is said to have been killed in 874 after a battle with the Danes. The famous course at Kingsbarns is passed before a final, delightful beach and The Inn at Kingsbarns – don’t refresh too much before returning on field tracks. A shorter alternative is to go from Crail to Anstruther and have fish and chips by the harbour before beginning your return.
10 miles, 5 hours (there and back).
9. BEN LEDI, NEAR CALLANDER
It was the Victorians who suggested that the idea of going up a mountain in Scotland was the sort of thing you might do for fun. Before then it was only really shepherds and drovers who got above the glens. There are a few exceptions and Ben Ledi in the Trossachs is one because it was used as a place for pagan ritual and Beltane Festivals long before Sir Walter Scott arrived on the scene. As a walk it is superb with little chance of seeing sacred rites on a circular route taking you up to the summit and a panorama of the Highlands. A descent leads into the unfortunately named Stank Glen – actually a pleasant place to gaze up at rocky buttresses, sometimes a hunting ground of the golden eagle. A grand day out is rounded off with some real ale in Lade Inn below. 7 miles, 4½ hours.
10. GLENTRESS FROM PEEBLES
Peebles enjoys a deserved reputation as a place where mountain bikers can pursue their downhill dreams with relish. But it is also a good spot for walkers with the rolling Borders hills above the picturesque Tweed Valley. The two-legged and two-wheeled rub along quite well thanks to separate trails for feet and bikes. A good walk starts in Peebles and heads up to Glentress
– the mountain biking Grand Central – following old tracks up to the Buzzard’s Nest car park. A descent by fields with hill views stretching into the distance leads to Glentress Peel where the café has excellent cake. The return then takes you along the mighty Tweed to the rugby pitches of Peebles and some hostelries where all are welcome, as long as they leave their bikes outside.
6½ miles, 4 hours.