A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
With subscribers prohibited from travelling freely, four Scottish Field writers stepped into the breach to help readers plan their next active outdoors retreat
Staycations may be on hold, but we can still plan ahead with these wonderful activity retreats
REVIEWED BY EDITOR RICHARD BATH
When Nic Houldsworth, who along with wife Zoe owns Highland Shepherd Huts in Nethy Bridge (he also built both huts on this glorious site overlooking the Cairngorms) first saw me, I saw him wince. After all, I’m 6ft 5in and the USP for the huts is that they are small and intimate.
He needen’t have worried. The huts may be tiny, but they are very comfortable. The bathroom/shower room is virtually full size, and although the main room is just one open-plan space, it has been planned and built with enormous forethought. There’s a good-sized kitchen, a sofa big enough for two to lounge on, and a tiny wood burning stove that makes the place toasty in no time at all.
If there was one caveat, it’s that the headroom above the bed, which is reached by climbing up a steep ladder and then crawling in, is pretty limited and any sudden upwards movement would probably result in a sair heid.
But these huts are not designed to be holed-up in – they are for outdoors lovers. Nic is a volunteer with the local Ski Patrol team and a keen outdoorsman, so he conceived the huts as a venue for walkers and skiers. There’s plenty else to do though: golf at Boat of Garten, Nethy Bridge or Aviemore; Loch Garten Osprey Centres; countless distilleries; hiking, biking and ponies. Then, in the evening, each hut has a BBQ area and artisan pizzas are delivered.
I loved my stay in these huts and I’d readily do it again, although be sure not to overfill them: two people is plenty.
REVIEWED BY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR ROSIE MORTON Few places have stolen my heart quite as quickly as the Isle of Skye’s Hotel Eilean Iarmain and its spectacular 23,000acre estate. Driving towards the island’s Sleat Peninsula from the mainland, carpets of heather leading the way,
I was entranced by the coastline and heart-wrenchingly beautiful mountains that towered above.
Nestled in a bay near Loch Hourn, the hotel itself is charming. A cosy lounge and crackling fire welcomes guests in the main house, which fellow residents were huddled round with a dram, and I was handed a key to one of the separate suites overlooking the water. The secluded, homely suites are set across two floors with a sitting room, bathroom and bedroom. I enjoyed a brew from my private doorway while watching the sun dance on the water.
After a peaceful night, I woke to what was the most spectacular golden sunrise I had seen all year. Only the seabirds had stirred across the bay. After a lovely breakfast, Scott MacKenzie – known as the Skye Gamekeeper – whisked me out for target practice on their simulated stalking experience. I cannot recommend it highly enough. Scott takes care of the entire estate, and is well accustomed to helping rifle newbies like me to take aim. To my delight, targets were hit, and Hector (the stag-shaped target) better watch out for my return visit. A plate of the estate’s venison rounded off the experience perfectly. It felt like I’d walked onto a set of Monarch of the Glen – fabulous.
REVIEWED BY RICHARD BATH
You may be a stone’s throw from Edinburgh, but once you’re on the Winton Castle estate in East Lothian you feel as if you’re in another, altogether more rural, world.
There’s a ton of things to do on the estate, ranging from lazy walks to clay pigeon shooting (their instructor is genuinely world class), laser tag, falconry, 4x4 driving, quad biking and segways.
We opted instead for the bushcraft, which saw us spend a hugely enjoyable couple of hours with Dave Crosbie of Tree-ditions, a local foraging and bushcraft specialist. I’d recommend this to anyone – Dave was incredibly patient and hugely knowledgeable. We started with a walk on the estate to identify various species of trees and plants, with Dave rattling out fascinating factoids, before moving onto simple bushcraft techniques such as starting a fire from damp wood. We were with him for around three hours but we were so absorbed that it felt like five minutes.
As for our accommodation, the five-star Winton Cottage is a rather lovely laird’s house that was the boyhood home to the current inhabitant of Winton Castle, so is suitably pukka. The house can sleep up to 12 visitors, and has a games room and large dining room, plus a big garden for hyperactive young ones. It’s a bit Tardisy, with rooms off rooms, but especially in the winter with the fire roaring in the background on there’s nothing better than finding a nook to curl up in and to lose a few hours reading a book.
Highland Shepherd Huts
Tel: 07734 354138
Hotel Eilean Iarmain
Tel: 01471 833332
Winton Castle
Tel: 01875 340222
The Old Manse of Blair
Tel: 01796 48 33 44
*Reviews were done prior to current lockdown.
REVIEWED BY STAFF WRITER STEPHANIE ABBOT AND OFFICE MANAGER RACHEL MORRELL
Located only an hour and a half from Edinburgh, we arrived at this gorgeous 5-star hotel in Highland Perthshire.
We left our bags with the friendly staff and made our way to Blair Castle Estate and Segway Ecosse. Expertly guided by Trevor, we headed out on segways to explore the surrounding forests and saw adorable red squirrels scurrying up and down the trees. Taking a brief pause we reached the impressive statue of Hercules, who overlooks the walled garden, and later saw some red deer.
We returned to the Old Manse and tucked into a packed lunch prepared by the kitchen team before going to meet Ross of Beyond Adventures at Loch Faskally for some canoeing. We were mesmerised by the beauty of our surroundings and had a real giggle in the boat.
Feeling chilly, we returned to the Old Manse and were welcomed by a cosy fire in the living room of the Georgian Suite. We slipped into our fluffy white robes and the comfiest hotel slippers I’ve ever worn. The rooms boast luxurious bathrooms with underfloor heating and gorgeous Siabann toiletries. We indulged in a hot chocolate with whisky then enjoyed dinner in the elegant Orangery. The highlight was the local seared loin and slow cooked shoulder of lamb served with a haggis scotch egg. After a restful night, we agreed we’d love to return. The hotel is luxurious but homely, and is the perfect base for exploring Highland Perthshire.