Sea Angler (UK)

How to revive retro reels.

Classic multiplier­s are seeing a renaissanc­e in interest

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heaps of old beach tackle gather dust in sheds and attics. A handful are collectors’ items; Moncrieff Springheel rods and the original black Abu 6000C multiplier, for example. For decades nobody cared much for the rest.

But judging by Facebook pages such as Vintage Casting Tackle, we may be on the verge of a retro revival driven by the same sentiment that makes some of us prefer a Series 1 Land Rover to the latest 4x4 - the fun and challenge combined.

Readers have been in touch about classic multiplier reels. They want to know the ones to look for, how to fix them up, how to cast and fish.

There are many multiplier­s out there from dreadful to exotic, but I’d go straight for a Penn or a Mitchell. They are as common as dirt and cheap as chips. As fishing and casting tools, they’re both effective and rewarding.

Of the Penns, the Surfmaster 100 and Squidder Junior 146 are ideal. A plastic spooled reel is essential because the alternativ­e chromed brass spools are impossible to control. Go Mitchell, and the top reel is the 602AP with its glass-filled nylon spool. These three dominated beach fishing and tournament casting until the Abu CT reels took command.

Reels range from pristine and boxed, to corroded parts in a plastic bag. Boot sales are a great place to find them. Reasonable mechanical condition is good enough for a reel to play with.

Penn’s plastic spools are their Achilles heel, prone to shatter if line is wound on too tightly. Mitchell’s spools are better, but the two halves can pop apart along the spindle. Penn did make aluminium alloy spools for both reels (models 100L and 146L) which are rugged and highly castable. Newell’s custom spools are even better.

SIMPle To FIX

Spools aside though, old Penns and Mitchells are reliable and simple to fix. As for spares, the best bet is to cannibalis­e another old reel.

A good scrub followed by a dose of WD-40 normally gets the muck off. Oil the bearings with sticky 90EP gear oil to begin with, later on with SAE20/50 engine oil for more speed. The general rule is if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. All three reels are straightfo­rward to work on.

Many times, I’ve been assured that these reels are extremely hard to control and incapable of long distances. I’ll leave it at this: they can do 200 yards or more; the spool can be left to run safely and totally free between launch and splashdown.

Matched to an appropriat­e casting style and rod, old Penns and Mitchells are as controllab­le as a CT multiplier with blocks or magnets. They take some getting used to, it’s true, and they come down like a ton of bricks on poor technique.

Skill and practice, the right lubricatio­n and a modest fill of line are the secret. In the early days, use 0.40mm line and at least 150g of lead weight. After a bit of birdsnesti­ng and scorched thumbs, your reward will be great performanc­e

and a huge sense of achievemen­t. ■

 ??  ?? Left: Penns and Mitchells dominated until Abu CTs took over
Left: Penns and Mitchells dominated until Abu CTs took over
 ??  ?? Above: The Mitchell 602AP was a top reel
Above: The Mitchell 602AP was a top reel
 ??  ?? Give your reel a good scrub, remove the muck with WB-40, and finally oil the bearings
Give your reel a good scrub, remove the muck with WB-40, and finally oil the bearings

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