Sea Angler (UK)

The inner workings of a fixed spool.

...and what does it do?

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Nearly all fixed-spool reels work on similar principles. The winding handle drives the rotor head that spins the bale-roller around the spool to retrieve line. The bail mechanism opens wide to release line for casting, then automatica­lly flips shut with a turn of the handle for winding in. When the rotor turns, the spool moves backward and forward on its shaft to spread line properly.

A knob at the front of the reel controls drag pressure, while somewhere on the reel body you’ll find an anti-reverse lever.

CHOOSING THE REEL

Choosing a fixed-spool reel is easier when you know roughly how they work and why some are better than others. Since reels vary so much inside and out, it’s better to focus on the principles rather than on the details.

The Penn reel shown here is an example of how good reels are made. Your own reel may be very different inside, but beneath the skin it shares the same features as just about every other saltwater fixed-spool reel.

Taking apart a fixed-spool reel is seldom necessary, but fairly easy with the help of the manufactur­er’s exploded parts diagram. Part names vary between manufactur­ers. For example, one’s ratchet and crosswind will be another’s clicker and oscillator.

There are some handy YouTube videos on fixing common problems, such as broken anti-reverse springs. As a rule, though, the innards are better left alone, except for occasional inspection.

1 DRAG ADJUSTMENT KNOB

A few reels have the drag knob at the rear, but most are controlled from the front of the spool. Both types work well.

The key issue is whether fairly modest pressure locks the spool for casting. Overtighte­ning risks damaging both the knob and the shaft’s threads. The majority of reels do pass the locking test, and most of those that don’t can easily be modified.

You can back off the drag between casts, but a handy option is to keep the spool permanentl­y locked, then backwind the reel should a big fish want to take line.

2 DRAG WASHERS

The drag mechanism is a stack of metal washers and friction pads inside the spool, usually held together by a circlip. Tightening the drag knob compresses the stack, making it progressiv­ely more difficult for the spool to turn and release line.

Drag systems range from crude and useless to super-smooth and non-fade over a wide pressure range. The refined drag systems of exotic fixed-spools aimed at saltwater game fishing are designed to avoid locking, which is an obvious drawback for big casters. This is easily solved, though.

3 SPOOL

The spool holds the line, but, more importantl­y, its size and shape control how well monofilame­nt or braid casts and retrieves. Spool profile, depth, length and diameter are the key points.

On the whole, a slightly coned spool is best. Shallow is better than deep, especially for thin braid. The experts argue themselves silly over spool design, but in the real world the vast majority of reels perform to a very high standard for beach work.

Fishing is usually more pleasant with a reel no bigger than necessary to hold the line you need. Fixed-spools are slightly awkward to use at best, so a fairly light and compact one makes good sense.

“Taking apart a fixed-spool reel is seldom necessary ... but fairly easy”

4 Bale-arm unit

Comprising a line roller and bale-wire mounted on arms on the rotor cup, the unit hinges open for casting, then closes to collect the line and return it to the roller for winding in.

Most close automatica­lly when the handle turns, tripped by a mechanism within the rotor. Some reels use an external knock-on system, or even a manual line pick-up. Almost any reel can be converted to manual pick-up mode, which a few anglers prefer for speed and reliabilit­y.

5 ratchet cog

The big star-shaped cog fixed to the spool shaft does three jobs. It gives the drag knob something solid to squeeze against and thus compress the drag washers. It holds the spool in position.

A spring-activated lever at the base of the spool clicks against the cog teeth to provide audible bite indication.

6 rotor and rotor arms

This unit rotates to drive the bale-mechanism around the spool. These days the rotor itself usually sits inside the spool, although on older reels it is on the outside. The modern system is superior because it permits better spool design.

Being made from aluminium alloys, rotor arms tend to be quite fragile and may not survive a bump. Arms are also prone to corrode where they join the rotor itself. Wash dirt and salt away before the metal’s finish begins to pit.

7 spool skirt

The skirt that encloses the rotor is more important than it looks. It must lie close to the rotor to stop loose line and muck being sucked inside the reel, but with enough gap to ensure smooth running.

The inside wall of the skirt often includes a plastic or fibre seal to brush lightly against the rotor, thus making it harder for grit and water to invade.

8 rotor drive unit

Removing the drag knob and spool reveals the crosswind shaft, which moves back and forward to spread line on the spool. The big nut around the bottom of the shaft secures the rotor head, immediatel­y behind which is the pinion gear.

The pinion, usually either a worm gear or crown wheel, rotates around the crosswind shaft and is supported by a sturdy bearing.

The anti-reverse mechanism, of which there are many designs, is usually around here as well. Flipping the anti-reverse control knob lets the handle turn forward only, or both backward and forward.

9 reel stalk

The stalk’s design is quite critical on a beach reel because it must be exactly the right length and shape for comfortabl­e casting and fishing. It angles the spool towards the rod’s butt ring so that line flows straight off the spool with least friction. The saddle on top must be tough and a good fit into the rod’s screw seat. Like the rotor arms, the stalk is a potential weak point and should be treated with care.

10 main drive gear

The main gear meshes with the rotor pinion to drive the bale-mechanism. Pinion and main gear are highly-stressed components, which must be well designed and engineered. They transfer a lot of energy when you crank the handle hard. That energy must be turned through 90 degrees in order to rotate the rotor head – a stressful business.

Quality is everything. Machined or CNC milled gears of tough metal, such as bronze, are superior to the soft die-cast alloy gears found on cheap reels. The whole assembly is cradled in roller bearings or ball races for smoothness and durability.

11 handle drive shaft

The drive shaft connecting the main gear to the handle is another hard-working component. Like main and pinion gears, rotor head and other internal components, it is supported by ball or roller bearings for smoothness, reduced friction and strength.

Plain bushes can be just as good. All depend on being supported firmly and accurately within the reel’s frame and, in this respect, fine engineerin­g is vital. This is another potential weakness, for unless the frame really is well made, all the bearings in the world won’t help make a reel strong and reliable.

12 crosswind system

The crosswind or reciprocat­ing mechanism drives the spool back and forth on retrieve. The mechanism takes many forms. A simple cog at the back of the reel may push the spool shaft back and forth at a constant rate.

Some reels feature highly complex systems that drive more quickly one way than the other to produce a superior line-lay pattern, which promotes better casting and less tendency for coils of line to dig into each other under pressure. These advanced crosswind systems may be closely integrated with the main drive and pinion assembly.

13 winding handle

Another underrated component. A welldesign­ed handle gives excellent retrieve power and comfortabl­e handling. It also reduces casting problems, the classic being where the bale-arm snaps shut midway through a cast. This frustratin­g issue can often be traced to a heavy handle assembly whose high inertia spins the rotor arm when you cast hard, and thus prematurel­y trips the bale.

The best handle knobs feature decent bearings and a sealed lubricatio­n point. Nearly all handles have a fold-away device of some kind. ■

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 ??  ?? The innards of most fixed-spool reels are similar
The innards of most fixed-spool reels are similar

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