GET INTO BOAT FISHING
Tips for uptiding and downtiding.
The age-old question of whether to fish uptide or downtide is a constant one, and in most cases the answer can be clearly defined by the target species and/or fishing conditions.
here I’ll try to simplify the answer as much as I can, while explaining which situations I prefer for either method, and what species can be realistically targeted.
THE UPTIDING METHOD
I’ve fished uptide and hooked into most species over the years, including porbeagle sharks, but for the most part I consign uptiding to shallower water, for which the method was really developed.
Situations where uptiding excels include fishing in our many river estuaries, such as the Thames, humber, Mersey and Bristol Channel, to name but a few. however,
I have also fished the method successfully in water up to 120 feet deep off the south coast, even while anchored on the Overfalls near The Nab.
It all boils down to the depth of water and strength of tide really. Anything over 120ft on a large tide lends itself to downtiding more than uptiding, simply because the depth of water and fast tide mean that you’d have to be able to cast your baited rig well beyond 100 yards uptide in order for it to settle on the seabed ‘uptide’ of the boat.
The basic technique involves casting your baited rig away from the boat – uptide – then, once it hits bottom, you let out a bow of line to allow the grip lead to dig in the seabed. When it has all settled, your line will be pointing downtide, even though your lead weight will be anchored uptide.
When a fish takes your bait, it will often trip the lead weight out of the seabed and the whole lot will trundle downtide, giving an unmistakeable bouncing-rod tip bite.
Just because a lead weight has wires sticking out from it doesn't mean it's going to hold in a strong tide. A good example is the standard breakout lead. Without doubt, this particular design has a well-deserved reputation as a grip lead, but it needs to be fished in shallow water at range to get it to rest on the seabed in the correct gripping position, which is why it is extremely popular with beach anglers.
A good uptiding grip lead needs a long tail to encourage it to lay flat, plus a set of wires positioned to ensure it takes hold. With that in mind, the Gemini fixed-grip range fits the bill perfectly. Coming with a long tail as standard, optional extension pieces to take the plastic head further away from the lead’s body to ensure it lays flat, and a selection of interchangeable heads and wire choices, this is about as versatile as it gets.
The fixed-wire option is also perfect when fishing over rough or snaggy ground, like a reef. It will dig in and hold bottom, but can easily be bent out under pressure – a bit like a fisherman’s anchor.
CORRECT LINE
For cutting the tide, the finer the diameter of your reel line, the less drag it produces and, therefore, the less stress this puts on the gripping abilities of your lead weight.
Modern braided mainline has a far lower diameter than monofilament, which helps when uptide fishing. However, this has to be weighed up against the weather conditions and depth of water. If it’s rough and you’re only fishing in, say, 30ft of water in a fast tide, then the motion of the ocean will rock the boat and, in turn, pull your rod tip round too hard and bounce your lead weight out of the seabed, rendering the method useless.
I tend to fish braid mainline 90 per cent of the time, though, especially in deeper water.
Mono is a great choice for the uninitiated. It’s more forgiving than braid, and a lot safer to cast. I’ve only had one near miss at losing a thumb in well over 20 years of casting braid, but it only takes that one fluffed cast to end in disaster, so bear this in mind and always take care when casting if you’re using braided mainline.
As a general rule, I use 30lb braid or 20lb mono when uptiding. In shallow, clear water, I will use a 40lb clear mono leader if I’m using braid, and no leader at all if I’m fishing mono – just taking extra care and gently lobbing the baited rig away from the boat, rather than going for an all-out chuck.
If I’m fishing over reefs or rougher ground, or when fishing for tope, I’ll use a 50lb mono leader for both braid and mono mainlines.
When it comes to downtiding, again I’ll use 30lb braided line as standard, with a suitable mono leader. I can’t think of a single downtiding situation where I would choose mono over braid mainline.
RIG CHOICES
There is a simple rule when it comes to boat fishing, whether you’re fishing uptide or downtide, and that is – the stronger the tide, the shorter your hooklength.
When fishing in strong tides I like to use a trace that is no longer than 3ft. When fishing in less tide I will increase that to 4ft, but I never go any longer than that with a hooklength unless I’m fishing for tope, where anything up to 6ft is my norm.