Game Cookery

Sometimes the old ones are the best, as this reimagining of the classic ‘petit pois à la Francaise’ or ‘ham and peas’ proves, says Tim Maddams

This recipe is simply a gamey twist on a traditional favourite. In this case, if you think ‘ham and peas’ you will not go far wrong at all. In the days when ham was cured at home by placing pork into a brine or dry cure, you got the added advantage of the liquid that you used to cook your cured ham in – this would be salty but it would also be very savoury, fatty and, well, ham-y.

This wonderful broth would then be used to cook either fresh or soaked dried peas, not only to cook the pulses but to offset the saltiness of the broth. The classic French example of this is

Petit pois à la Francaise or, as we know it, sweetened peas.

For this version, I have lightly cured the legs of the rabbit in a bit of dry cure for an hour or two, or overnight if you like. I have then rinsed off the salty cure and poached the rabbit legs until tender in light rabbit stock, made from the bones of the rest of the bunny.

Once the ‘hams’ are tender, set them to one side to cool a little before cooking the peas in the same stock. I add garlic, thyme, finely diced onion and beat in melted butter mixed with flour to thicken the peaaddled stock. The rabbit is then replaced with the now thick peas. Finish by stirring though washed, sliced lettuce just before serving. The whole thing sounds like a bit of a faff to make but is really very simple and is a great and inexpensive way of using up the rabbit in its entirety. It is also a good way to use frozen peas – they are ideally

“Frozen peas are ideally suited, bringing colour, flavour and a satisfying texture”

suited to this dish, bringing colour, flavour, sweetness and a satisfying texture.

There is something timeless about this dish and it’s just the sort of thing that I’d like to be served if I was invited to someone’s house for lunch.