RAISE A GLASS
ONE of the best things I do, thanks to this little corner of printed words, is meet people who make wine. I can enthuse forever about a glass of wine; and enthuse even more if I’ve met the people behind that liquid treat.
Wine isn’t just about how it tastes – it’s about why it tastes like it does. Learning about the grapes, the geography, the people, the weather, the skill and the science all adds up to geek overload for someone like me.
This week I met Kyle Thompson, senior winemaker at Saint Clair Family Estate in Marlborough, New Zealand, who was on a flying visit to our shores. Marlborough has a fantastic reputation for sauvignon blanc and pinot noir wines yet it is still very much a region on a learning curve.
Kyle told me: “New Zealand is such a young wine-growing country. We Kiwis are learning fast – we’ve got to! We’re at the end of the world and we have to get out there and do it. We haven’t got 300 to 400 years of wine history, we’ve only got 35 or 40 years.
“At Saint Clair each vineyard has its own individual flavour and individual terroir and the whole ethos of Saint Clair is to capture the land and capture the flavour. Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (RRP £22.99, Majestic, Spirited Wines, New Zealand House of Wine): Tropical fruit, such as passion fruit, lychee and papaya play on the senses alongside blackcurrant leaf, green fruit and nettles. It has a wake-up call of acidity and vibrant fruit in the mouth, but is beautifully in balance. The mouth sensation lasts a deliciously long time. It’s a power pack of Marlborough sauvignon blanc.
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Saint Clair Pioneer Block 14 Doctor’s Creek Pinot Noir 2015 (RRP £19.99, Majestic,
The grapes are selected from a single vineyard called Doctor’s Creek – so-named after a small stream which runs through its centre. It has a moreish, complex nose – one nose dip brings coffee beans, another blackcurrant. Then there’s black cherry, redcurrant and plums. The wine has been aged in oak adding layers of complexity and a subtle spatter of spice.
ALSO IN MY GLASS…
BORRAGO #47 Paloma Blend (RRP £19.99, 50cl, from borrago.com, masterofmalt.
com) is an option if you’re taking on the Stoptober challenge (and jolly good luck to you). Borrago is a non-alcoholic spirit distilled
with botanicals. The recipe is a secret but I’m told two of the botanicals are rosemary and cardamom for “depth” and “a mouth-watering nose”.
The jury is out. I thought the nose was medicinal and it brought back childhood memories of hiding under a towel above a steaming bowl of water, sneezing. It is bitter to taste and lacking substance. I added tonic and ice (as the Borrago team suggests, it is ideal as a base for alcohol-free cocktails) and things improved. The nose opened up with flowers and lavender, with a lift of citrus. Borrago almost redeemed itself. ■ Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.