South Wales Echo

Smokin’ hot

We visited the top rated Hang Fire Southern Kitchen in Barry to find out what all the fuss is about...

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ON former dockland on the outskirts of Barry town centre lies a real foodie gem.

Forget trendy London eateries, Michelin-starred country properties or bustling city centre diners – this almost tuckedaway space is where you will find the UK’s best restaurant.

Hang Fire Southern Kitchen is the brainchild of Sam Evans and Shauna Guinn who were inspired by the southern American-style of barbecue cooking during a road trip to the US and went on to conquer the street food circuit in Wales with their mouthwater­ing creations.

They opened their restaurant in 2016 at The Pumphouse in Hood Road, Barry and they haven’t looked back since.

Open Wednesdays to Sundays, the restaurant is packed night after night and this visit – which coincident­ally came just days before they were crowned the UK’s best restaurant in the coveted 2018 Observer Food Monthly Awards – was booked more than two months in advance.

So is it worth the wait – and do they deserve that top accolade which was decided by readers and a panel of judges?

The food

Just as the name suggests, Hang Fire Southern Kitchen serves up Louisiana soul food classics, US barbecue and wood-fired steaks on Wales’ first custom built Argentinia­n Parrilla grill.

The starters

There are plenty of authentic southern appetisers offered, including Shrimp ‘n’ Grits (South Carolina stonegroun­d white maize) and smoked wings.

This wasn’t our first visit to Hang Fire Southern Kitchen and maybe we should have thought back to how full our bellies had previously been when we didn’t even have starters.

But having arrived this time with very empty tummies (we could only get an 8.30pm slot such is their popularity) and recalling how I had drooled over the smoked wings served at the next table, we decided it was all or nothing!

So I ordered the Korean BBQ wings. Priced £6.50, there’s a choice of four styles but I don’t think these could have been bettered.

Served with toasted sesame seeds and spring onion, they were coated in the most deliciousl­y-sticky, thick dressing which had a sweet chilli kick. While chicken wings can be a bit on the skinny side, there was plenty of meat on these bones.

These need to be eaten with your hands and you shouldn’t worry about getting the dressing around your mouth - enjoy every gooey mouthful.

My partner chose the Piggybacks (£4.50) - puffed up pork chicharron­s with 18-hour smoked pork shoulder.

Once again there was plenty of meat but the dressing was quite sharp and vinegary and he wasn’t fussed on the chicharron­s, which were a bit like a bland prawn cracker. And once he’d had a bite of the chicken wings, his starter really paled into insignific­ance.

The mains

While there are some veggie choices (crispy southern fried aubergine slices), this really is a meat lover’s paradise, offering barbecue plates, burgers and southern staples like Nashville-style chicken and waffles.

While I love the beef brisket and ribs, the Hang Fire Burger (£14) caught my attention. The half-pound all-beef patty is made in-house using prime brisket and onglet steak and flamegrill­ed over beech and oak wood.

Medium-cooked, it literally fell apart as I bit into it. I asked for ‘the works’ to be added (at no extra cost) lettuce, tomato, onion and house pickles, which gave added flavours and textures. I also asked for cheese (£1.50) as, to me, a burger is lacking without it.

Served with chips, which had some skin left on them, thinly sliced, sweet and crunchy slaw and a fresh demibrioch­e bun from Pettigrew Bakery , this really is one of the best all-round burger meals you’ll find.

My boyfriend opted for the barbecue meal priced at £24 for your choice of three meats, seasoned fries, slaw and pickles. (There’s a choice of two meats for £18).

He loved every mouthful. The pulled pork was beautifull­y cooked and contained some crispier pieces and there was a good dollop of sauce on top. The rib meat fell from the bone and the brisket just melted in the mouth. Pure perfection.

However, the plate was too large for him as he struggled to polish it off (luckily any leftovers can be boxed up to take home).

One little aside, the restaurant has three types of homemade sauces on every table to complement your meal and these really need to be sampled.

The desserts

There’s not a great choice and only two were on offer – chocolate brownie or Key lime pie.

Now I’m normally a fan of either of these but those appetisers and mains had left us full to bursting.

But I fancied a palate cleanser to round off the meal and asked if we could just have a couple of dollops of vanilla ice cream to share and they happily obliged – and added a swirl of caramel sauce to boot.

The presentati­on

The food is served simply without any fuss, just as you would expect from an American diner.

The main barbecue meal came on a tray with brown greaseproo­f paper and really showcased the meat on offer.

The service

Every time we’ve visited (about three times now) the staff have been incredibly helpful and friendly and, above all, they are truly passionate and knowledgea­ble about Hang Fire Southern Kitchen and it really shows. They can’t wait to tell you about the menu, offering you pointers without

being pushy. I was surprised to discover that there’s no vinegar on offer – how can you eat chips without vinegar?

But our waitress revealed how I could mix two of the sauces to get a vinegary dressing.

The decor

You may be in Barry but you could be in the heart of Louisiana. This is an authentic American diner with exposed brick walls, wooden floors, dim lighting, wooden tables – and we love the name of the restaurant spelt out in big letters on the wall which is lit up.

Our verdict?

Hang Fire Southern Kitchen is putting not only Barry but Wales on the foodie map – and quite rightly so.

You would be hard-pressed to get US-style barbecue food this good in America itself.

The meat – from the brisket to the burger and the ribs – is the most tender I’ve come across and the flavours punch through without being overpoweri­ng.

The service is top class, the restaurant is relaxed and friendly and you leave (with your doggy bag) feeling perfectly sated.

It might take you a couple of months to get a table so just remember to book well ahead for that special occasion.

Hang Fire Southern Kitchen, The Pumphouse, Hood Rd, Barry CF62 5BE. Online bookings only – visit www.hangfireso­uthernkitc­hen.com

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 ??  ?? Piggybacks (smoked pork shoulder starter)
Piggybacks (smoked pork shoulder starter)
 ??  ?? BBQ meats (pulled pork, beef brisket and ribs)
BBQ meats (pulled pork, beef brisket and ribs)
 ??  ?? Hang Fire burger
Hang Fire burger

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