All eyes on the pies as The Heathcock returns
ONE OF WALES’ MOST POPULAR FOOD PUBS HAS OPENED A SECOND VENUE IN CARDIFF. THE TASTETEAM VISITS THE HEATHCOCK IN CARDIFF
WHEN the news that Bib Gourmandwearing Vale of Glamorgan pub Hare & Hounds would be opening a sister venue in Cardiff there was much excitement among the city’s food-lovers.
While an easy Sunday trundle out to the Vale is a treat, to have their carefully-curated seasonal menu within easy distance at the Heathcock adds a great string to the bow of Cardiff’s culinary scene.
We booked a table on a cold, autumn weeknight and I couldn’t think of any place better to be.
We didn’t take long to decide what we wanted, the menu was modest, but interesting and varied, and we were treated to homemade sea salt and rosemary foccacia and sourdough while we perused.
Starters were indulgent, and it was hard to choose between the likes steamed Gower mussels or braised rabbit leg pappardelle, but I sipped my plum Prosecco fizz (£5.50) and went in with gusto.
I chose the king scallops, button mushroom, smoked bacon and Granny Smith (£11) and my friend picked the celeriac soup with Monmouth truffle and crispy quails egg (£8).
The celeriac soup was rich and creamy and we could smell the delicious truffle as the soup was brought to the table. The presentation, with the soup in a little jug that you could then pour over the quails eggs, was fun. The quails eggs were perfectly crispy and melt in the mouth on the inside. My friend was more than happy.
My scallops were perfectly cooked and the button mushroom was served as smooth puree, the apple was crisp and tart and the bacon salty.
The combination was well balanced and the scallops were of excellent quality. The mushroom had a surprisingly powerful flavour but with the fresh apple and bacon it was not overpowering.
I really appreciated the effort placed into the starter and the careful consideration of the flavours, but it didn’t set my world on fire. I cannot complain about quality of ingredients, either, it was superb.
Mains included wild Welsh seabass with octopus, roast duck breast and a choice of sharer mains like braised Torgelly Farm lamb shoulder and a whole wild Welsh salt baked seabass.
In the end we opted for the pheasant, leek and ham hock pie for two (£28 for two people). It’s autumn, it’s dark, it’s cold and I want pie, who doesn’t?
The sharing option is a great idea, the pie is huge and it just makes dining more fun, more relaxed and your tummy even more full.
The filling was generous and the meat content was impressive. Huge chunks of pheasant and even huger ones of ham hock. The sauce wasn’t overpowering in terms of flavour – the mustard and tarragon delicately complimented the meat – nor did it flood the plate by being too runny.
You needed some moisture from the sauce, though, to make some of the pastry soft enough to bite as parts of the crust was slightly over done.
It came with homemade chips – wow – and buttered hispi cabbage. These sides were awesome, the chips were brilliant, lots of crunch on some, but fluffy white and perfectly-sized on others. The cabbage was great and made sure there was a fresh element to the meal.
By now we were full but of course we had to sample the plum souffle (£8.90). This was light as air, very delicate and perfectly risen with a meringue-like top – and the vanilla ice cream served with it was superb.
The Heathcock more than lives up to its sister pub’s reputation and then some. It’s wonderful to have the talented team in the capital. That team is attentive, informed and friendly. Nothing was too much trouble.
Heathcock’s innovative creations sit well next to good old fashioned pub fare that’s taken to another level.
There was even enough pie left to take some home and the staff were more than happy to pack it up.
A taste of the Heathcock at home is something to look forward to, but I can’t wait to go back.
The Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge Street, Cardiff CF5 2EN. For more details or to book go to www.heathcockcardiff.com