SMALL WONDER
SAM WYLIE-HARRIS soaks up the romance and relaxation at a Maldives beach paradise
RACING into the sunset, I feel a warm glow on my face. We’ve been skimming across the crystal-clear waters of the Indian Ocean for 20 minutes, and it feels as if time’s standing still, with nothing on the horizon but a sinking sun.
Then, like a mirage, a lush green island looms into view, and I spot a table for two, a parasol, bean bags, a chef in whites, two waiters and a fired-up barbecue.
We’re handed flutes of ice-cold fizz, and as dusk falls, we tuck into plates of Cajun-spiced yellowfin tuna, seabass, king prawns and wagyu steak.
By the time papaya is served, we’re so relaxed that all our cares have been washed out to sea, and we’re chatting and laughing like two lovestruck teenagers.
This romantically remote desert island dining takes place at the newly opened Faarufushi, the latest addition to Raa Atoll.
A scenic 50-minute seaplane journey north of Male, this small coral island has 37 beach bungalows and 42 water villas, each marked by a thatched roof of coconut leaves and mesmerizing views of the turquoise lagoon – and most boast private infinity pools.
Flora and fauna have been carefully preserved, and at first sight, the showstopping 45-metre pool (just shy of Olympic-sized) nestles so cleverly amongst the tall palm trees, you’d think it was what mother nature intended.
Our huge water villa is about 200 metres down the jetty and days are
bookended with dips in the sea.
Four restaurants operate in the resort, with engaging staff providing friendly service. Turn up barefoot and breakfast like a king in Iru (the Dhivehi word for sun), which serves an impressive hot and cold buffet, as well as a la carte.
We enjoy lunches sitting by the pool at Sangu (meaning shell horn), which serves the best sashimi, or the beach restaurant Athiri, where ceviche and Korean chicken wings are ‘finger-licking’ good. On one special evening, we get dolled up for Eclipse, a fine-dining restaurant on stilts overlooking the lagoon.
Strolling down the jetty for sundowners in the adjacent Boli Bar, we’re diverted by our barman pointing to the water, where we watch rare eagle rays glide past.
Burning incense creates an air of sweet earthiness at Nika Spa (named after the Banyan tree in its pavilion), which has six couples’ treatment rooms. Set on stilts, they resemble giant treehouses.
Three chimes of a gong ushers in our 60-minute Lombok massage.
If you struggle with a massage, Nika offers complementary yoga.
Alternatively, walking barefoot along the shoreline and counting harmless blacktip reef sharks is the best therapy in the world.
When the wind picks up, there’s a chance to go windsurfing or have fun hiring a jet ski.
Even though it only takes 15 minutes to walk around the island, there’s always so much to explore. This secluded hideaway isn’t flash, but it is a dreamy paradise.