Going retro in Lisbon
SAM CARROLL DISCOVERS THE TIMELESS APPEAL OF PORTUGAL’S CAPITAL CITY
VINTAGE clothes, movie remakes and throwback interiors prove that retro, here in the UK, is very much in.
Outwardly, though, sleek, shiny and polished buildings are the order of the day.
Take the short trip to Lisbon, however, and Portugal’s capital city has tapped into the retro trend within its charmingly dated walls.
Lisbon’s history is as interesting as it is inescapable.
A charming Tuk-Tuk ride is an affordable, fun and fast-paced method of cramming as much of the local neighbourhoods and seven hills as possible into your trip.
Hopping off with our well-informed tour guide allowed for time in Belem’s sprawling cathedral, Jeronimos Monastery and Baixa and Bairro Alto.
No Lisbon trip would be complete without a stop at the world-famous Pasteis de Belem, and tucking into a trademark Portuguese custard tart in the baking sun while perched on the Tuk-Tuk was a particular highlight.
Any history fan will be in their element here – but it’s the modern twists which really catch the eye.
Some of Portugal’s most iconic brands are tapping into the retro-modern juxtaposition currently sweeping the beautiful coastal city.
Claus Porto, a beauty and fragrance company founded by two Germans based in Portugal in 1887, chose Lisbon as its first base outside the home it was named after.
The store’s identity reflects the character of the city and in Lisbon, housed within a former pharmacy, the glass cabinets and original chequered flooring hint at its past life.
Heading outside, the charming Quinta da Boa Esperanca vineyard was an experience.
The rolling green acres of grapes waiting to be turned into wine were complemented beautifully by knowledgeable and passionate tour guides.
The wine wasn’t bad, either.
Given glasses of crisp white, dry rosé and robust red to sample – plus locally sourced snacks inside a luxurious cottage that is available for rent during the summer – allowed a relaxing end to a magnificent first day.
The old-fashioned art of wine-making teamed with a modern, hospitable home plus a swimming pool and large television, highlighted the ultimate beauty of Lisbon.
Inside and out, the city is dripping with stories that have already been written and the new ones waiting to be told.
The best example of this, perhaps, is based inside Lumiares’ recently regenerated Vintage Hotel & Spa.
The Vintage claims it is ‘more than a comfortable place to lay your head, more than a great location and more than a chic design destination’ and it lives up to the boast.
From the moment you step inside the lobby – complete with a 1950s turntable – to the complimentary vintage bar cart within the room, the entire hotel effortlessly blends modern luxuries with retro fancies.
A rooftop bar is joined by the imaginative Blue restaurant and bar
with food inspired by Portugal’s sea and sky.
The bar, it must be said, is stunning. From here, it feels like you can see the entire Lisbon skyline with its sprawling, uneven rooftops and pastel colours. The daytime sun bakes down on the perfectly located rooftop paradise but a selection of couches, loungers and chairs make for glorious relaxation beneath cooling umbrellas.
On the final day, I spent several hours out on one of the sprawling beds available. The sun beaming down on my face and the helpful drinks service – plus a surprisingly prompt and delicious lunch I ordered – made it difficult to head back to my room before leaving.
In fact, with the spa treatments (a relaxing ‘sleep’ massage is recommended) the temptation to hole up in the hotel and rooftop bar was strong.
But with Avenida Liberdade, Bairro Alto, Chiado and Principe Real all within walking distance, it’s all about providing the best mix of relaxation and exploration. Just like Lisbon itself, the hotel teams retro with modern to impressive effect.