CATCH THE SUN A SWEDE DEAL
From literary secrets to lifeboat derring-do, Tenby has something for everyone,
THE £2.5 million Tenby lifeboat rocketed down the slipway against a ear-splitting cacophony of sirens warning other boats to keep clear, and we all held our breath.
As it hit the water, the impact sent waves skyward like a giant explosion and the world’s most advanced lifeboat was lost for a few seconds in spray before heading, at speed, for the horizon.
I had been lucky enough to be in the lifeboat station at the popular Pembrokeshire resort as the RNLI crew launched the boat for one of its dramatic practice exercises. It was an experience not to be missed.
The lifeboat station is just a few hundred yards from the centre of the town and to get to it you have to pass the old lifeboat station which has now been converted into a private home, the conversion being the subject of an episode of TV’s Grand Designs.
The medieval walled town of Tenby is listed as one of the top five sunniest places in Britain, which is possibly why every year the population of 5,000 swells to more than 60,000 in the height of the summer as holidaymakers flock in.
But it’s certainly not the only reason why Tenby has appeal.
For starters, all the streets around the town centre and beachfront become a pedestrianised zone from July 1 until mid-September which gives the town a relaxed feeling.
On my visit in late August, eateries and bars seemed to have as many tables outside on the streets as inside, and there was a lively buzz to the place.
As you walk around, you find narrow streets and cobbled alleyways going off in all directions, many packed with interesting independent shops and places to eat.
And as you stroll keep your eyes peeled for the fascinating blue plaques on the walls, many indicating the town’s literary connections. We found one on the house where, while on holiday, Mary Ann Evans was inspired to write her first novel published in 1857 under the name of George Eliot and another on a flat where author Roald Dahl stayed for many Easter holidays as a boy.
There’s even a plaque marking the house where Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton stayed.
The town boasts four blue-flag beaches with the largest, South Beach, stretching as far as the eye can see.
Like the other three, it has crystalclear water and superbly familyfriendly soft sand.
At the end of the beach you can access the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, a major attraction for the more active holidaymaker, not to mention their canine companions.
From South Beach you get a great view of Caldey Island, a 20-minute boat trip from Tenby’s Castle Beach.
Keen to see the famous monastery and abbey on Caldey, I joined other tourists for the £14 return trip to the pretty, peaceful island with its bluebell woods, cliff-top walks and picturesque beaches.
If you’re lucky you will see a seal or puffin en-route. But the major attraction for most is the impressive Italianate Abbey of Our Lady and St Samson.
Disappointingly, I found you can no longer go into the monastery – for years men could visit but then a claim that it was discrimination against women led to a no-visitors rule – but you can certainly enjoy the impressive architecture as well as buy island-produced chocolate and perfume.
A walk in the woods also offers the chance to see red squirrels, but sadly they were all hiding when we were there.
Back in Tenby town centre, look out for the Tudor Merchant’s House.
The three-storey, late 15th-century National Trust town house is the oldest house in Tenby and it’s fully furnished in the style of the day and gives a fascinating insight into Tudor life – don’t miss the chance to play with some of the hand-made period toys.
I was surprised to find that, back in 1495, the family had a toilet on each floor, and that the large bed slept in by the merchant and his wife would be used for up to six people if guests were staying.
There was no such problem with our accommodation, a stylish and spacious basement flat – the Lantern Suite – with its own private garden just a few minutes walk from the town centre.
Marketed by Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire, this romantic hideaway for two boasted everything from a trendy range in the kitchen to televisions in the lounge, bedroom and even the toilet.
It was the perfect cosy spot to chill out after a day of exploring and ideally placed if you wanted to stroll back into town for dinner or some evening entertainment.