The little Valleys graveyard with a big history
St Mary’s Church in Glyntaff, Pontypridd, is in many ways an ordinary Victorian church, but its graveyard tells the story of much of the town’s rich industrial history, as Katie-Ann Gupwell discovers...
SOMETIMES we walk past buildings, places and monuments every day, but we have no idea how important they actually are.
We often have no idea what things mean, what stories they tell or what history lies just minutes from our own homes.
The churchyard at St Mary’s Church, in Glyntaff, Pontypridd, is just one of these places.
The church building has been operating ever since 1839 meaning the building is now more than 180 years old.
For nearly 200 years, people in Pontypridd have worshipped, visited and walked past the building, but not everyone knows what stories lie within its grounds.
Whether you’re a churchgoer or not it will be hard for anyone not to be intrigued by the history that lies within the church’s graveyard, as the memorials within the grounds act as reminders as to how Pontypridd become a town that thrived in industry and a town that became known around the entire world.
The stories of St Mary’s fascinating churchyard have recently been uncovered in new a book written by the church in collaboration with Hawthorn High School, entitled St Mary’s Church Is One Hundred And Eighty.
Even though some of the older graves are not in the best condition, they still reveal some intriguing aspects of both local and Welsh history. The gravestone of George William Lenox, known as ‘the father of the Welsh chain trade,’ is but one important memorial that lies within the church grounds. He was buried at St Mary’s churchyard after he died in 1868 at the age of 70.
Born in Tottenham, on May 20 1798, George was the son of Samuel and Agnes Maria Lenox. Samuel Lenox was one of the co-founders of Brown Lenox and Company.
Describing the company, St Mary’s Church Is One Hundred And Eighty reads: “In 1812 a factory was built in Millwall, London, for the manufacture and testing of chain cable and the manufacture of ancillary products such as anchors, buoys and water tanks. “In 1816, a second factory was built at Ynysangharad, Pontypridd, which was to become their main chain manufacturing works, located alongside the Glamorganshire Canal. “Following the death of his father Samuel Lenox, in 1836, one of the founding partners of the company, George William Lenox, succeeded him as a senior partner in the business.”
In 1839 George went onto marry Miss Rosa Ross Wilkinson of Rose-inVale, near Truro, Cornwall, and the couple had six children, including Lewis Gordon Lenox, who later took over the business from his father. During his time at the businesses,
The gravestone of George William Lenox is but one important memorial that lies within the church grounds...
George took out many joint patents (with the foreman of the works) for many inventions, innovations and improvements.
By 1860 he had become recognised as quite an expert and manufacturer and also presented the paper On Chain-Cables to the Royal Institution of Naval Architects.
In this paper, he spoke about anchor chains and their history.
George also played a big role in the development of the Great Eastern which was, at the time, the largest ship
in the world. Although it was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, George Lenox manufactured the anchor chain cable, but he didn’t appear to be one for taking credit on launch day.
Describing this story in the book, it states: “Brunel asked him to pose with him, to have their photograph taken, but Lenox refused. Brunel then scrawled on the back of one photographic print, ‘I asked Mr Lenox to stand with me, but he would not. So, I alone am hung in chains.’
“The Brown Lenox Company built up a formidable reputation as the world’s premier manufacturer of anchor chains and was the sole supplier to the Royal Navy for over 100 years, as well as mercantile marine, manufacturing anchor chains for many famous ships.”
But, as well as his great industrial success, the story goes that George “took a keen interest” in his workforce at the Pontypridd base and was considered a “virtuous employer”.
At its peak, the chain works actually employed up to 700 people. Not to
mention, George actually secured Pontypridd Common as a recreation ground for the public to enjoy – a simple luxury that continues to be cherished to this day.
He was also very interested in the construction of the Victoria Bridge, which was opened in 1857.
It was built alongside William Edwards’ Old Bridge over the River Taff to enable vehicles to access the town.
It was developed to aid Pontypridd’s growing development at the time.
George’s wife Rosa Ross Wilkinson is also buried at the small churchyard. She died suddenly on June 13, 1882, when she was just 61. It’s believed her death resulted from heart failure.
Rosa was only 18 years old when she married the man who was known as ‘the father of the Welsh chain trade.’
The couple spent their time between Pontypridd and London but, during the summer months, the family would always reside at the small Valleys town and Rosa was said to have a particular interest in local parochial and public matters.
She was considered a person who generously contributed to charities and schools, especially those connected with the Anglican Church.
Describing Rosa, a passage in St Mary’s Church Is One Hundred And Eighty reads: “Mrs Lenox’s association with these matters led her to become a household name in the district she loved and where she was very well respected and beloved.
She was a devout Christian and wrote Original Composition In Verse And Prose, comprising 299 pages of largely religious literature, which she had privately printed in the 1880s.
“Rosa took a great interest in the welfare of the families employed by her husband and partners in the chain works and was responsible for many kindnesses to retired employees, widows and children.”
The book also explains that there is a great mystery around two gravestones that commemorate Philip Thomas, who was a manager at the Brown Lenox chain works.
For those not familiar with Philip Thomas, he was involved with the development of chain cable design and his work resulted in a joint patent with Brown in 1816.
Just how much he was involved with the development of chain cable is unknown, but as Philip was the first manager at the site, it is thought he would have had a significant role.
Even though his story holds great significance within Pontypridd, he was actually born at Drumau near Neath, in 1771.
His father was Philip Samuel Thomas, a weaver, who had become the steward of the Drumau estate.
It’s believed he may have been employed at his father’s business at a time when Brown was looking for good smiths to manufacture cable. As well as being involved in many projects, he was also heavily involved in the development of the chain pier at Brighton, which was one of Brown Lenox’s early commissions in 1822-23. He worked with the company until he died in 1840.
His death led to the surfacing of a fascinating story as Francis Crawshay, the industrialist, who had known Philip quite well, offered a stone for the grave which was quarried from the back of his home at Forest House.
wHe also arranged for a man to write the inscription but, unfortunately, this person turned out to be a man with a limited understanding of English and he carved words on the stone that led to upsetting the family.
Although it was by no means intentional, the regrettable inclusion of the phrase: “much to the benefet of all mankind died...” resulted in the family being distressed.
It’s understood they later had the name Philip Thomas erased.
Describing the ordeal, the book reads: “The rough stone used also upset the relatives who arranged one night in great secrecy (not to incur the displeasure of Mr Crawshay), to open a hole in the churchyard wall and to take the stone, which they discarded in a nearby field.
“Dr Price, a friend and medical advisor at the Brown Lenox works and a favourite of Francis Crawshay, arranged to recover the gravestone. Men with horses from the chain works took the stone and erected it on the Common in its present location.
“However, at St Mary’s Church, Philip Thomas’ name is inscribed on the tomb of his daughter who died in 1850.”
Another local legend buried at the churchyard is John Calvert. Even though he was born in Yorkshire in 1812, John travelled to south Wales as a young man to make his fortune.
It was in Wales that he later become a contractor for part of the construction of the Taff Vale Railway, which was engineered by Isambard Kingdom Brunel.
The railway opened between Merthyr Tydfil and Cardiff in April, 1841, and it was during the same year that he helped to construct the branch line from Pontypridd to Llancaiach.
It was after his early work in railway construction that he later turned his mind to coalmining which, at the time, was being developed in the area.
John became a well-known colliery owner and played a great role in pioneering the development of the local coal industry.
In 1844 he obtained an agreement from the Rev George Thomas and his brother and was asked to work the coal under their property at Gelliwion.
As a result, John later sank the small Newbridge Colliery, which was located high up in the Gelliwion valley above the Graig.
The book states it was here he discovered “good quality coal at a depth of 54 yards”. The colliery operated until January 1, 1897.
St Mary’s Church Is One Hundred And Eighty states: “His next venture in 1848 was the sinking of the first shaft at Gyfeillion, eventually striking the famous No3 Rhondda Seam, which was the nearest to the surface in the valley at a depth of 149 yards.
To celebrate the opening of the pit, he gave his workmen and their families a feast at which an ox was roasted.
“A print depicting the festivities and captioned ‘Celebrating the winning of the coal’ was featured in the Illustrated London News of 23rd August, 1851. Shortly after the opening of the pit, a battery of coke ovens was set up at a cost of £17,000 and the Ty Mawr Colliery was sunk.
“John Calvert faced a large bank overdraft by 1854 and was forced into an agreement by which the Great Western Railway (GWR) worked the colliery for a trial three month period.
The colliery was sold to the GWR in 1854 for £31,000 and became the Great Western Colliery.
Ten years later in 1864, the Great Western Railway Company sold the colliery back to John Calvert, having worked it at great profit. Following the colliery resale, back to Calvert, the pit was sunk down to the steam-coal seam in 1875. In addition to working the Great Western Colliery, John Calvert also worked the Hafod Pit, later to be amalgamated with Lewis Merthyr and the Coedcae.”
Much like many successful businessmen, John also became a director of the Pontypridd Markets. He was a notable figure for many reasons and is regarded as one of the “most enterprising men of his time”.
He is even considered to rank with Dr Richard Griffiths (1756-1826) and Walter Coffin (1784-1867) as one of the three great early coal pioneers who worked in the Pontypridd area.
But, although he had many successes, John also experienced his share of misfortune.
According to the history books John was said to have “made money easily and spent it just as easily”. Despite his many accomplishments, he died in poverty. He is said to have become “reckless” as he grew older and would splurge on costly items.
Together with a bit of bad luck in business, the spending helped lead to the demise of his fortune. But, despite his ups and downs, he continued to devote himself to the church before he died in 1890.
He was 78 when he passed away at a little cottage in Llantwit Fardre.
John’s story is a slightly more tragic tale than the others, but the work he did for Pontypridd will never be forgotten in the history books.
Like many people of his time, John’s story will continue to be told to remind future generations as to how Pontypridd’s town and local history developed. It’s tales like these that show how the coal industry and businesses like Brown Lenox helped to put the little Welsh town on the map.
Many more notable figures are also buried at the churchyard at St Mary’s Church and their stories, along with more information about the history of the church, are included in the book.
St Mary’s Church Is One Hundred And Eighty is currently only available from the secretary of St Mary’s Church, Brenda Cawthorne, whose idea it was to write the book. It’s available to purchase at the price of £9.99
John’s story will continue to be told to remind future generations as to how Pontypridd’s town developed.