Much-loved Mill Lane has witnessed changes galore over the decades
It’s 25 years since Cardiff’s Mill Lane was rebranded the “cafe quarter”. But the history of this cobbled street spans far more than a quarter of a century, as Ffion Lewis reports
FOR more than 20 years, Mill Lane has become as synonymous with a night out in Cardiff as a bag of chips from Caroline Street on your way home.
Whether it’s dining in one of its restaurants, a drink in one of its bars or a big night out in a nightclub, the street is a staple in the city’s hospitality sector.
Officially launched as a cafe quarter 25 years ago, Mill Lane is now home to some of the UK’s biggest chains, as well as some of Cardiff’s best known independent bars.
But the street’s now famous reincarnation as a hubbub of socialising and activity does not tell the full story of Mill Lane by half.
At one time, Mill Lane – which got its name from the steam mills which used to stand near the end of St Mary Street – was little more than a lane containing a row of two-bedroom cottages.
Due to industrialisation, the city continued to expand, becoming a hub for business, enterprise and trading, and a new Mill Lane soon emerged.
Today, Mill Lane is bustling with people enjoying the al fresco experience at restaurants and bars.
Older readers will remember the open-air fruit and veg market in Mill Lane and, before then, the Glamorganshire Canal that used to run alongside it.
They will also remember The Terminus pub. Originally the Steam Mills Arms back in 1858, it was renamed The Terminus – owing to the horse-drawn trams stopping there – in 1882.
The old Glamorganshire Canal that transported iron from Merthyr Tydfil ran alongside the lane until 1958.
The south gate of Cardiff’s old medieval walls also stood on the corner of this city centre spot.
Exactly where is a matter of dispute, but what’s not in doubt was that it was removed by businessmen in 1802 because it was deemed a “nuisance”.
In 1848, William Vachell had an iron foundry in Mill Lane and a street directory reveals that in 1894, John Ruddock was host at the King’s Cross Hotel which was established in 1873.
He actually held the licence of the pub for more than 20 years. Originally from Bristol, he had come to Cardiff in 1863. A mechanical engineer by trade, he gave up engineering work to run the pub. In those far-off days, a Mr A Blucert had a tobacconist shop there while Ellen Murphy ran the Elliots Hotel.
Fast forward to 1929 and at number 39 Mill Lane you would have found hairdresser Albert Price. You would have still found Albert there in 1949 along with Singers Sewing Machines, Janida Model Railways, Chamberlain & Sons and the Mill Lane Cafe.
The Mill Lane Cafe at number three was still there in 1970 while next door at number four was Top Toupee Wigs.
Luxton Fishing Tackle and Perkins & Sewards Builders Merchants were two other businesses in Mill Lane, the latter being based there for many years.
In more recent times, the lane was home to bar and live music spot Sam’s Bar in the 1990s and renamed Zync in 2005.
Like some of the other buildings in Mill Lane it was reputed to be haunted.
Twenty five years ago Mill Lane in Cardiff began to be transformed into the bustling Café Quarter.
Its transformation into a thriving nightspot and foodie destination – thanks in no small part to the efforts of businessman and restaurateur
Giovanni Malacrino – has been one of the city’s great success stories.
With the backing of other business-owners, Giovanni spent months trying to persuade Cardiff council to support their vision, even making a scale model of their proposals and leaving it at the council offices for planners to consider.
Now, during big events, the area is packed with people enjoying the many bars and restaurants it has to offer.
Giovanni, who has traded in the area for more than three decades with Giovanni’s Restaurant’s and Cookery School told the Echo in 2015: “Many of today’s customers who frequent this glamorous part of the city have the belief that the area has always been an attraction.
“However, when I opened The Continental in the 1980s, Mill Lane was one of the most run-down places in town.
“It was heavily congested, with a three-lane road, and the area hadn’t been invested in for years.
“One afternoon I stood at the end of the street and thought, ‘why isn’t al fresco dining more popular in the UK?’
“I gathered the support from other business people and we approached the council.
“The city has prospered as a result of the regeneration and I’m proud to have played a big part in this.”
Now, 25 years after its “launch” as the street we know today, it’s still a firm favourite among locals as well as those straight off the train at Cardiff Central.
And despite some much-loved venues being lost to the street – Soda nightclub most recently – new ventures are still fighting for a coveted spot.
This week, a Scandinavian beer hall was given the go-ahead to open its first UK spot on Mill Lane no less.
Earlier this year, Swansea based bar and kitchen Gin Ne Sais Quoi announced they were expanding to the capital - to take on the space that was previously occupied by Carluccio’s and Gourmet
Burger Kitchen on – you’ve guessed it – Mill Lane.
After 18 months which has rocked the hospitality industry, it’s clear that life on the cobbled pavements of Cardiff’s first “cafe quarter” is showing no sign of slowing down.