I spent every moment in a wetherspoon from the second it opened to closing time
...and there’s more to ‘Spoons than meets the eye, finds Bethany Gavaghan
SPENDING 16 hours in a “Spoons” might be considered a cry for help, but for me this assignment was more a social experiment, an attempt to learn what makes the UK’s most popular pub chain tick. What are its secrets? Its enduring allure?
And so I spent a day and night in Cardiff ’s most prominent Wetherspoon, the Prince of Wales, on the corner of the capital’s nightlife epicentre St Mary Street.
“Spoons prices” is a phrase most are probably familiar with, referring to the chain’s cheap and cheerful fare. But JD Wetherspoon seems to mean something different to everyone, as I found out. From each passing hour it feels like the venue transforms into a different world.
8am: One person goes through the doors before me. I thought I’d be the first one in. The mood is relaxed, and quiet, with only two or three customers wandering around, and staff are busy placing menus on tables. I’ve ordered the hot drinks refills for £1.56 because I’m keen to see how many drinks I can get out of this before anyone raises an eyebrow.
When asked how much alcohol and coffee Wetherspoon sells each year, their press office responded: “Alcohol – no idea. Coffee – around 1.5 million cups a week across all pubs.” That’s a lot of hot drinks.
I sit in the centre of the room so I can get a good view of what people are up to and what the feel is for the first couple of hours. Sitting with a mocha (the first purchase of the day), I felt a bit like I was in a hotel as I selected which drink to go for on the machine. It’s so chilled in here, with a few people already enjoying some food.
Eyeing up one man’s breakfast, it’s tempting to open up the Wetherspoon app and order it to the table, but I wanted to wait until at least 10ish – a full English at 8am on a Wednesday feels extreme. There are about six or seven people in the pub by 8.30am. They looked like they had places to be, throwing back hot drinks and eating as fast as they could; nobody seemed to hang around for very long at all.
9am: I did think it might be busier by now. It’s still super peaceful. An older lady is sitting across from me enjoying beans on toast – she doesn’t want her name in the media but tells me she comes in a couple of mornings a week before her train to Newport.
“I get in at 10am for work there but this is my bit of the day when I can think,” she explains.
I have momentary flashbacks to university nights spent at Spoons with people ordering copious amounts of pitchers, struggling to find a free table and resorting to conversing adjacent to a lively bar. I’ve never thought of Wetherspoon (or any city centre pub, for that matter) as a place where people go to think. But each to their own.
Two men across from me also seem to be having an informal meeting, discussing business over cups of coffee, and using their phones to make notes.
Despite my initial adjustment, the sophisticated dining atmosphere actually does suit the venue’s tone. The Prince of Wales in Cardiff, which was once a cinema of the same name, is a striking building built on the site of the Old Theatre Royal and has a great amount of history, like a lot of the buildings Wetherspoon takes over.
The pub chain has definitely come a long way over time. For 44 years, Wetherspoon has been a fixture of the UK. From humble beginnings in a former bookies, the first Wetherspoon pub opened in north London, in Colney
Hatch Lane, Muswell Hill. It was dubbed Martin’s Free House during its first month of trading, after Tim Martin, the founder and chairman of Wetherspoon. Then, at the start of 1980, the bar was renamed Wetherspoon in honour of Tim’s schoolteacher from his time spent living in New Zealand.
Fast forward to now, and many Wetherspoon pubs are adaptations of existing historic buildings that have become redundant, including banks, churches, post offices, theatres, and a former public swimming pool. Many of these properties are listed buildings, but some are new construction or late 20th-century assets. And it now feels like the chain has kind of taken on a life of its own, with people embracing the spaces across Wales and the UK in all sorts of different ways.
10am: Someone is taking an online meeting in the corner of the pub (and is talking quite loudly). I’m wondering how long people have been using pubs like this as remote working spots. It was quiet enough for him to speak clearly on his call without distractions, although I am not 100% sure what the other customers thought. I’ve also now joined the rest of the breakfast club in Spoons at this hour and ordered a veggie brunch for £5.75, alongside an orange juice for £2.41.
11am: Disaster strikes. I left the table momentarily – the refillable coffee cup has been taken. Fair play to the staff who keep the pub in fantastic condition. I have now ordered a new one, and am crossing my fingers that I can manage to keep hold of the mug in an attempt to rinse the refillable coffee machine some more.
Across from me is a man who I spotted earlier who looks like he has had the same idea, and has been refilling his cup for a couple of hours. Tomas Atkins, 48, is on his phone and looks up at me as I ask him how many hot drinks he reckons are socially acceptable to help myself to without buying a new cup.
He laughs, and replies: “This is my third cappuccino.”
I ask if he’s a regular.
“I come in about once a week if I’m between jobs. It’s usually pretty relaxed at this time but I keep myself to myself”, he explains.
Tony works part-time as a window cleaner, and has been spending more time in cafés and pubs, even if he goes in them alone, since the pandemic.
He says: “I didn’t used to go out much unless I was with my wife or meeting people. But after lockdown I started just going for a drink on my own if I had time to kill or wanted to get out the house.
“Places like this didn’t used to be made to spend time in unless you were drinking alcohol but it’s also becoming more family-friendly these days. And with Wetherspoon, you know that the pubs will be big, and you won’t be fussed over all the time.”
The idea that pubs adopt a no-nonsense approach to their atmosphere, allowing people to come in and spend time without being hassled, was an interesting perspective, particularly post-pandemic. The novelty of getting out of the house has definitely worn off for me now, but it was enlightening to hear that this could play a part in Spoons’ popularity.
I was keen to find out what other people made of the laid-back atmosphere, so I asked everyone what their perception of Spoons was as a brand, and as a place to spend some time in.
12pm: Tilly is all about the atmosphere when it comes to Wetherspoon. She often comes in for coffee with her friends, and on this occasion, she went
for something a bit stronger.
Confident one of the main things people actually enjoy about the pub chain is the sense of calm, especially at this time of day, she notes: “It’s chilled in the morning. When I meet friends we always meet here for coffee to start the day off and there’s a lovely mix of people that come in – you start to get a younger crowd a bit later.”
Around lunchtime, a few more people started to arrive with laptops, as the mood shifted from early morning meetings to conversations over food.
I’ve seen occasional negative reviews for chains like Wetherspoon, with a select number of disgruntled customers bemoaning the “laptop brigade”, arguing that they do not order enough food or drink to their table and that they are taking up space from other paying visitors.
As I had also joined the laptop crew today, I was curious to get Tilly and her friend Wayne’s thoughts on seeing people working in a pub.
Tilly replies: “I don’t mind. I’m also retired, which is nice, I can do what I want and enjoy the atmosphere.”
Wayne simply answers: “I’ve got my work laptop with me in my bag. But when I’m in here, or wherever, it stays in my bag.”
1pm: Ruth Williams and Sam Walker have been enjoying a midday meeting catching up on things, and have also both been working on laptops. The main thing that draws them both here is convenience, they explain.
Ruth says: “It’s a great place to have a meeting with friends or business meetings having a working lunch.
“Any time Sam and I meet up we go to a Wetherspoon. You get left alone and the staff are really good. It’s nice in here and all the Wetherspoons I’ve been to are nice – and can be a good night out as well!”
Sam adds: “It’s really clean as well.
The tables are always which is important.”
I can concur. There was barely a moment that went by where I couldn’t see staff members cleaning tables. (Hold on tight to those coffee cups, people.)
I think it’s safe to say that the chain’s economic strategy of keeping things simple has paid off.
Wetherspoon’s ability to offer affordable meals and beverages while ensuring quality stems from its efficient operational practices.
Through bulk purchasing, streamlined operations, and a no-frills service approach, which lots of people seem to be loving at the Prince of Wales, Wetherspoon significantly reduces overhead costs, allowing them to pass on the savings to consumers. really clear,
2pm: It’s not a work day for everyone. Upstairs, Kate, 24, and 25-year-old Lucy tell me they come for the drinks, but stay for the atmosphere.
“The atmosphere is what we’re about,” Kate explains.
Lucy adds: “It’s got more of an aesthetic than just your bog-standard pub. It gets a good level of busy and there’s more space than other places you can drink in Cardiff.
“I think a lot of people might not perceive it as a cheap feeling place just because it sells cheap food and alcohol but I don’t think it is that, and you can get what you want here. Today we’re starting off light with the Smirnoff Ice and we’re moving to the jugs in a bit.”
It feels like at this point in the day it’s like worlds colliding, as each table has a completely different feel. Sitting just a few metres away are sisters Mary and Vera. They enjoy a relaxed meal and some red wine from time to time where they know what they are getting.
“Convenience and value for money have got to be the best things about Wetherspoon,” Vera tells me.
3pm: What I’ve learned about Spoons by this point is that pretty much anything goes. It’s like being in an airport. People find it socially acceptable to drink at any time of day. And then it’s also perfectly fine to just sit on your own, reading a book, scrolling on your phone or sitting with a laptop or magazine.
4pm: A large queue has formed at the bar downstairs. I walk past Kate and Lucy, who have now moved onto the aforementioned jugs of cocktails – they seem to be having a good time. Ruth and Sam are still in the corner – laptops out and working away. It seems this Spoons means something different for everyone – with the divide in people using it as a wholesome daytime space to those already downing booze becoming more vivid as drinkers at the bar begin to trickle in.
5pm: I’ve ordered a small bowl of chips. And clearly the lively Spoons atmosphere has turned me into a rebel because I’ve also helped myself to another coffee (my third of the day – this time at 5pm, which I know probably wasn’t my wisest move but there we go).
6pm: I no longer regret the coffee and have moved on to a cherry Pepsi. It’s got much louder in here so I have decided caffeine is here to stay tonight.
7pm: A group of Cardiff friends are catching up.
“What are we drinking tonight?” I ask the university students, thinking they may be heading for a big night out.
“Too much alcohol!” one exclaims. They have gone all out with a strawberry daiquiri, ciders, wine and vodka mixers but aren’t planning a big night.
One of the girls says: “We’re just having the debrief. It’s a good place for a catch-up and the location is very pretty – obviously it’s the old theatre. But other than that it’s just the prices – very student friendly.”
8pm: The night has well and truly begun at the Prince of Wales. People are amply refreshed at this point and the bar is packed. There are a lot of younger people here now, with many in conversation about where to go next.
In the back of the pub, I meet Katie, Dan, Matt, Bill and Liam.
Katie says: “We don’t know where yet, but we’re definitely going out.
We’re definitely going clubbing!”
9pm: Who knew Spoons was the place to celebrate romance? Not me. In the pub tonight there are people from all walks of life, but the person with the most adorable tale to tell was a lady celebrating her ruby wedding anniversary – 40 years of marriage with her husband. She is absolutely loving life, is several glasses of wine deep with her friends and very enthusiastic about having her picture taken.
10pm: I’ve ordered a garlic pizza bread to my table. You would think that a whole day in Spoons would mean ordering several large meals but I only just realised I hadn’t actually eaten dinner – just a small chips in the afternoon.
I’d give the garlic bread a solid 10/10. It’s a good level of crispy, and came over very quickly. I laughed as the waiter brought it to the table, and says: “I’m guessing you know where everything is now?”, referring to the stations dotted around the pub harbouring the sauces. They definitely think I have no life by this point.
I smile and say: “Ah, yes, I think so.” I’m also comforted by the fact there is another lone customer sitting at another table, so at least I’m not the only one.
Eyeing up one man’s breakfast, it’s tempting to open up the Wetherspoon app again and order it to the table, but I wanted to wait until at least 10ish Bethany Gavaghan
11pm: My friend has now arrived after her late shift at work. Steph quickly orders a gin and tonic and was also impressed by how busy it was.
She said the next day: “I was surprised to see how busy it was for a Wednesday night! There were many groups of students gathered around tables and the atmosphere was lively and upbeat. Everyone seemed to be having a good time.”
12am: People start being asked to leave at 11.52pm. I’ve quite enjoyed watching the lively crowds in the later hours, but it’s time to go home.
There’s an undeniable variation in how people spend time in, view and understand Spoons culture. And possibly all pubs nowadays. It seems like pubs that used to be purely drinking spots have shifted to sell food throughout the day, and adapted to suit people’s needs, which makes me wonder how else they will change shape over the next decade.
Although numbers have reduced over the last 18 months, a large portion of Britain’s workforce is working remotely, and gravitating to different spaces to work from to improve the flow of their day. I don’t think that pub chains have gained a reputation yet as being the ideal spot for remote workers, but I can certainly see it going that way based on what I saw today. But Spoons – especially Cardiff’s Prince of Wales – is still very much a place people go to have a good time. Wetherspoon spokesman Eddie Gershon agreed, noting: “The Prince of Wales is an extremely popular pub. It plays a vital role in Cardiff’s social scene.”
He adds: “It is busy throughout the day, catering to different people at different times, from families to students to business people to individuals.
“Wetherspoon pubs are important to many people as a place to enjoy something to drink and eat in great surroundings with excellent service and a value-for-money offering.”
What shines through when you spend 16 hours here is that you can get whatever you want out of it, and that’s exactly what people are doing.