Take a punt on Cambridge
DO THE CLEVER THING AND GET TO KNOW THIS CAPTIVATING CITY WITH ITS FAMOUS COLLEGES, RIVER AND FOOD DELIGHTS, SAYS JANE MEMMLER
CAMBRIDGE is home to one of the UK’S most revered seats of learning, Cambridge University, and the city passes with honours when it comes to idyllic weekend breaks. Set on the River Cam, its most famous attractions are the 31 colleges, with their over-the-top Gothic design, dating back to 1209.
Tiny alleyways, alongside medieval houses unchanged in centuries, weave through the city. You almost feel and smell the learning in the air.
You may stumble on a pub here, a tiny cafe there as you wander past ancient tilting walls propping up bicycles. The market square has been host, since the Middle Ages, to stalls now selling everything from organic burgers to hand-carved wooden plaques, as well as books.
Rent a bicycle and join the locals exploring this city on two wheels.
WHAT TO SEE
IT’S all about the colleges. The most spectacular is King’s and the King’s College Chapel, built in 1446-1515. It is home to a renowned choir (if you can, go to a Sunday service), plus stunning stained-glass windows and stupendous Gothic style. During university term time, you can wander into some of the most esteemed colleges and their immaculate gardens, with old sandy walls covered in ivy and trailing wisteria.
St John’s College has an impressive entrance – an ornately carved wooden gate painted in bright colours. At Trinity, founded by Henry VIII, and whose alumni include A.A. Milne, Isaac Newton and George VI, wander over cloistered lawns and visit the grand dining room.
Going for a punt on the River Cam is one of England’s most quintessential pleasures.
Glide alongside the Backs – the banks that run behind seven of the most spectacular colleges.
And sail under the Bridge of Sighs, a Grade I covered bridge connecting St John’s College and the ancient, wooden geometric Mathematical Bridge of Queen’s College.
WHERE TO EAT
FACING Parker’s Piece in the centre of town is Parker’s Tavern. Part of the University Arms Hotel, it has a very relaxed French bistro feel with white linen tablecloths, banquettes and wainscot walls adorned with Cambridge scenes.
The incredible menu created by Tristan Welch includes slow-cooked truffled duck egg on toast with a truffle-mushroom mayonnaise (£12), tempura courgettes with local honey, cider vinegar and pepper (£8); a Wiltshire truffle risotto (£15); spaghetti Bolognese (£10) and nut brown buttered sole (£16).
Have afternoon tea at The Orchard (theorchardgarden.co.uk) in the pretty town of Grantchester, home to Jeffrey Archer and where the late Clive James lived.
Sit in this untamed orchard (also known as God’s acre) under the apple trees on deckchairs – just as Rupert Brooke, Virginia Woolf and E.M. Forster did after punting down the Cam. You can do the same, or cycle and drive there.
WHERE TO DRINK
FOR the ultimate views across the spires and rooftops of Cambridge, the rooftop bar at The Varsity Hotel and Spa (thevarsityhotel.co.uk) is a knockout space. Fake lawn, squishy sofas and glass balconies make for a comfortable, uninterrupted view.
The cocktails are the best in town too. Passion fruit martini, anyone?
WHERE TO STAY
THE rather striking University Arms (universityarms.com) is an eclectic mix of Edwardian grandeur and whimsical flair.
Rooms have massive windows, even bigger beds, pleather-topped desks, industrial lighting and marble bathrooms with rain showers and claw-footed baths.
Throughout, art pertaining to Cambridge’s colourful and learned history is dotted over public areas, including old maps, rowers, punts and a giant photo of Winston Churchill dominating reception.
A beautiful library full of wellchosen books from London booksellers Heywood Hill will inspire you to lounge on a Chesterfield for the afternoon.
Doubles cost from £146 per night, room only.
The university’s library has over 29 million books and receives a free copy of every book published in the UK